Help a noob

Welcome to the BA site, Stefan. I'm going to report this thread and ask that it be moved to the homebrewing forum where it will get the correct audience for replies.

For now, I suggest that you sit tight and give us an update tomorrow as to whether you have observed the start of fermentation. Yeast health and other factors can cause fermentation to be slow starting, and 48 hours or longer is common.

 

Sooooo you boiled the contents of the can of extract correct? No need to sanitize anything on the boil side of things, the boil does that for ya!

 

Did you boil and add any hops? As @SFACRKnight said you don't need to worry about sanitation pre-boil as any microbes that would ruin your beer will not survive the boil. Everything that touches your beer after cooling will need to be sanitized.

Like said above I wouldn't worry about seeing bubbles or not. You likely don't have a perfect seal on your bucket or its just taking a little extra time to get going.

If you're not able to control fermentation temps you may want to look into trying some kveik yeast. I haven't used it yet but its said to ferment beers between 70-90 with no ill effects. Not sure US-05 will handle temps in the high 70s too well.

 

i'll just throw it out there...next time, don't bother re-hydrating the yeast, just pitch it right into the cooled wort. What say you @JackHorzempa?
Keep your eye on it, and don't fret if things don't go exactly as planned. You're not curing cancer, just makin some beer and everyone makes mistakes before they dial in their process. Good luck with it!

 

I think the Coopers kit extracts are pre-hopped. Yum.

 

Looks like you are right. Never used those so I always forget they exist. Can't imagine how that would taste but for a first try I could see someone doing that.

 

I say: read all about it (in September?).

Cheers!

 

Some dried yeast need the re-hydration step because they can't just take up water from the wort. They'll give off phenols without rehydration.

Creamy yeast, BTW, is all you need. It shouldn't be active.

If you can't tighten the lid, and you don't see any activity in the airlock in the next day, pull the lid off and take a look. If it's foamy on top it's fermenting. If not, pitch more yeast.

 

I think this is truly a case for, what was it Papazian said, relax and drink your face off?

I think this beer will turn out fine for what it is, which is an extract beer. It's a start.

 

For your next batch I would strongly recommend that you not use dextrose but only use malt extract. The concept of using a combination of malt extract and sugar (dextrose) is something that was suggested decades ago primarily as a cost reducing measure. An all malt extract beer will be a higher quality product.

Cheers!

 

Yep, I understand that, even when I started homebrewing back in '91 (?) it was an expense.

If worse comes to worse though you can try to distill it. That'll only cost you about a grand in new equipment!

 

Do you have a hydrometer? You should use one to help evaluate whether fermentation is finished.

 

Lack of bubbles in the airlock don't necessarily tell you that fermentation is over. Is there by any chance a ring of crud just above the top of the wort/beer?

Umm... 3F maybe?