I'm very new to this home kegerator process. I read through a few of the threads but didn't see info on what I am wondering about. Any suggestions for a quality kegerator for around $500? Will use for the little 1/6 barrel kegs mostly but if it could hold a 1/4 barrel that would be an added bonus. I saw a couple suggestions for brands more near $1000 in a different thread. Just wondering if it is possible to get a decent one cheaper and if so what you'd suggest. Also, how many different couplers (the part that connects to the keg) do you need these days for kegs or do they all connect the same? Sorry if these are dumbass questions. I researched a few kegerators on-line for about $500 but just a little learly about the quality and if they are worth buying.
You get what you pay for, so "quality kegerator" and "$500" aren't usually used in the same sentence. I think the defining thing for a quality kegerator vs. a dorm fridge with a tower is whether or not there is a built in tower cooler. A built in tower cooler means the manufacturer understands how to get good pours and sells a product that will provide that. Of course you can get a cheaper unit and make your own tower cooler, but at the end of the day it is still a dorm fridge and isn't as well designed as a kegerator. Domestic beers use a D Sankey coupler, so as long as you are buying domestics you only need 1 coupler.
If you are diligently looking on Craigslist, ebay and your local restaurant supply* you may find a decent used kegerator for a cheap price but you should have a good idea of what to look for. A lot of used restaurant equipment is really abused and did not get proper maintenance. A lot of used home owner kegerators were never any good to begin with (impusle buys) and should be avoided. If you have a little skill, some tools and don't mind having an old fridge in place of a new kegerator, consider building one. Most all draft supply wholesalers as well as bigger home brew supply sites have all in one kits. You just supply the refrigerator, and occasionally the outboard t-stat as well. That could get you into a very good unit for around $500 more or less. Also. Stainless Steel. You want it to be Stainless, all beer contact, if at all possible that is something you want to work into your budget. Cheers *If you wait a bit longer I think there is going to be a glut of restaurant equipment on the used market. Bars and restaurants have a high failure rate to begin with and a pandemic is not helping.
A very sad situation, when we start to come out of this and places don't re-open it is really going to hit home.
Thanks. I used to deliver Miller beer in the 80's while in college and thought there were different couplers for different domestics back then. If I wanted to get say an Ayinger Hefe keg, do you have any idea what coupler I'd need for that and is it the same deal where that coupler would work for all German beers or even better all imports?
The Sanke coupler was designed to be an improvement over previous designs, and it is. The design is much more sanitary and when they work they work well. But of course having the couplers be universal is just too much for industry. There are 6 varieties, all slightly different and not interchangeable. So, for domestic beer, you want a Sanke "D". This is what you would get if you did not specify. But it is easy, D = Domestic. 99.9%. of North American kegs are D, Anchor being the notable exception (and they may be going to D now). Micromatic as well as some others have comprehensive list of couplers to breweries. https://www.micromatic.com/keg-couplers/beer-brand-/-keg-taps-couplers-listing Ayinger is pretty easy too, "A". Germany is the worst offender as they use "A", "S" and "M". Ireland is typically U". Sometimes "S". Britain is "G" or "S". Belgium is usually "S". But not always. And when Euro Brewery X is absorbed by multi-national Brewer Y, it can all change again. So if you plan to rotate kegs you'll need plenty of couplers. And they are not real cheap either. Expect to pay $50 to $100 for each Euro variety. Decent D couplers are about $30. Avoid the super cheap no name variety, the machine work is dismal and they tend to not couple to the keg very well. And, as always, S/S is preferred. Cheers.
Thank you! That is awesome information. One last question. How often do you need to clean lines. I'll be rotating all different styles. I'd imagine after a hefe you'd need to clean right away? Any suggestions on the best cleaning methods?
Every couple of weeks for cleaning, which involves taking the faucet and coupler apart and running solution through the lines. For home use, get a pump cleaning bottle and concentrated BLC (beer line cleaner). Mix up a batch, screw the pump bottle to the shank, which is where the faucet is attached, and pump it through. Plan on changing the lines every year or so depending on use. They are cheap and easy to replace, you will see they do absorb beer over time and get discolored.
