Another Noobie bottling question

In the past, I always let the sugar mixture cool slightly and then added to the bucket. I figured adding 5 gallons of beer on top would bring the temp down the rest of the way. I also assumed that it would get mixed as it the beer was added --- I switched to kegging before I realized this probably isn't the case, and this was probably why I had some very over carbed beers very quickly.

I'd recommend sanitizing a large cooking spoon or mash paddle and stirring gently from the bottom. I use this technique when brewing so I can get more accurate gravity readings. (Getting pre-boil gravity readings is where I discovered sugars don't always mix throughout wort and it could use some stirring).

 

Placing the racking tube in the bottom and against the wall of the bottling bucket will create a whirlpool during transfer and help mix the priming solution. It's still a good idea as mentioned by @tmm786 to gently stir the completed transfer
I usually transfer about an inch of beer in the bucket first to wet the bottom, then pour in half the solution and the balance when about three-quarters full. Not sure that makes a noticeable difference, but am reasoably sure it doesn't hurt.

 

Use a priming calculator. 5oz of sugar is likely too much. Also, don’t assume you have a full 5 gallons of beer. My first batch years ago, I used the whole 5 oz in less than 5 gallons and I don’t know how the bottles didn’t explode.

 

Bottle conditioning can be a big variable for all brewers, and it is annoying when some bottles are carbed differently than others.

The kit will give you set amount of priming sugar and simple instructions. With very little effort you can really nail your bottle conditioning by using an online calculator. Total volume and fermentation temperature make a big difference. And measuring sugar by weight, not volume, is much better.

An easy way to improve your brewing.

Cheers

 

FWIW my technique is to cool down the sugar/water solution before adding it to the bottling bucket.

Make sure your tubing is all the way to the bottom of the bottling bucket to mitigate splashing (aeration) and while a swirling action can occur it is prudent to gently mix when the transfer is complete to ensure thorough mixing of the sugar solution with the beer. I personally use the racking cane (which was sanitized) to perform the gentle mixing operation.

As has been discussed the 'default' amount of 5 ounces of corn sugar may be more than what is needed. I would encourage you to consult an online priming sugar calculator. One example:

https://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/

The amount of sugar added is based upon a number of variables with two being the actual amount of beer and target carbonation level (which you may want to vary based upon beer style).

I stopped using corn sugar many years ago and simply used regular old table sugar. Note from the priming sugar calculator that you use a lesser amount by weight of table sugar vs. corn sugar.

And to re-enforce what @billandsuz discussed the measuring by weight (vs. volume) is the way to go.

Happy priming!

 

Try to determine the actual liquid volume in your fermenter before you decide how much sugar to use. Your boil-off rate may have left you with 4.5 gallons, and some of that will be left behind with the small amount of trub in the fermenter when you transfer. So you may only be transferring 4.25 gallons of beer. Then it's okay to boil your sugar with .75 gallons water (instead of 16 oz. per the instructions) so that you get back to your full 5 gallons. Then use a priming calculator to determine if the 5 oz. of sugar is correct for a full 5 gallons.

EDIT: And I'll repeat what was said above - mix the solution as gently as possible into the beer so that it's evenly distributed. Don't create bubbles as you stir. I also gently stir a few times during the bottling process.

 

@KPlen This may have been brought up in one of your many other threads, but have you read "How to Brew" by Palmer? If not, the free version is here: http://www.howtobrew.com/

 

I'm similar to ripper and jack.
Tho I do allow for 3 or 4 inches in the bottleing bucket before pouring in the sugar solution. I also use the racking cane to give it a little stir.

 

Yes, that is the results of the calculator.

Do you have 'extra strong' bottles to use for this batch? A value of 3.3 volumes is fairly high.

For your consideration:

"No, anything above 3.0 volumes isn't safe in glass bottles. Depending on who you ask, the max is somewhere between 2.6 and 3.0 volumes of CO2.

That said, if people strictly followed these limits, you'd see a lot fewer Belgian Strong ales in competitions. It's not completely safe, but many people get away with cramming 3.0-3.7 volumes in glass bottles."

https://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewing/comments/1jp6ux/at_what_volume_of_co2_will_a_standard_bottle/

I brewed a batch of Grodziskie a few years ago and that beer style requires > 3 volumes of CO2 but I decided to keep it at 3 because I didn't want any bottle bombs.

Maybe some BA has extensive experience about how high in volumes a standard brown beer bottle can go?

Cheers!

 

I've carbonated multiple batches of hefes to 3.5 volumes in standard LHBS brown 12 ounce bottles with no issues. This was over a decade ago. I don't know if typical bottle quality has changed since then. YMMV.

 

Bottles with pry off caps are more robust than twist off caps. The glass is a bit thinner on the twist offs, it is fairly easy to notice if you look. Commercial cork bottles (for beer, not wine) are pretty much always going to be your best bottle, so if you are drinking Belgians hold on to them. Of course you'll need a corker and corks too, so more equipment more money. Champagne bottles are indestructible. You literally can not exceed the pressure rating with bottle priming. But you may need champagne corks and cages, if you are curious.

Avoid bottle bombs. No shit Bill! Getting into the +3.0 vols is when things can get hairy. This is where moderate conditioning temps help. Once the bottles fully condition, a closed box in the basement or any colder area. In a box because when a bottle explodes it explodes with shards of glass, usually the bottom blasts off. You'll hear it, and wonder what happened, then see it on the floor and know for certain.

I have some Duvel Black label bottles than are probably 25 years old. They don't get used too often but they are still bullet proof.
Cheers

 

Commercial bottles are rated but there is no standard. Even though it is called the Industry Standard Bottle (ISB). So a Libby ISB could be a bit different than an OI ISB, though I imagine the differences are more important for a commercial bottler and not much difference for us. The shape and size will fit into the bottling machine.

If you really want to know the potential of the bottle, weigh it.

I also learned, after a little research, that contrary to my initial understanding glass does not fatigue like we think it does. As in if it is shocked, dropped, banged up but not broken, then it is 100% it's original self. I'm still not sure how this works, because re-usable bottles are pulled out of circulation after a spell (supposedly 16 cycles) but maybe it is because of cosmetic reasons? I'm not a bottle expert by any stretch.


Also
Kegs.

Cheers

 

Not necessarily helpful on a short timeframe, but when I drink Orval, Duvel, or those half-liter German bottles (Weihenstephaner, Schneider, Hofbrau), I always make a point of saving the bottles. They are heavy duty and the labels come off very easily. Then when I'm bottling something that will be heavily carbonated, I use those bottles and don't worry about over-pressurizing them. It does take a while to build up a stockpile of them, though.

 

I hate gushers. I never prime with more than 4.2 oz in 5 gallons, ever. Somehow my beers always still have plenty of carbonation regardless of style.

 

Like others, |I let my priming mix cool slightly.
So what I do is get that stuff boiled, then put the lid on a bit to sanitize that with the steam. I bring it down to my brewing area and let it sit on the counter while I get the rest set up. I'll add the priming mix to the bottom of my (sanitized, of course) bottling bucket, then rack the beer on top. I set the hose at the bottom to create that whirlpool effect. I haven't had any issues with under or over carbonation in a given batch from this.