Help with a Nut Brown Ale (my first!)

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by michealtrichaife, Jan 22, 2022.

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  1. michealtrichaife

    michealtrichaife Initiate (0) Jan 22, 2022

    Hello, All.

    I am brewing my first beer, from a kit - Northern Brewer's Block Party Amber Ale, except that I used a Nottingham yeast instead of the pre-packaged yeast. I was able to follow the directions fairly well, considering it was my first shot at brewing. The instructions said to steep my grains till the water temp. hit 170F, which I did. The procedure continues with adding in the malt syrup, mixing and bringing to a boil, adding the hops and boiling for sixty minutes. I actually used a timer - unheard of! - and turned off the flame exactly on 60". Cooled - ten minutes to go from boil to 100F. Five minutes of good aeration - just like mixing five gallons of paint, ah the old days. Pitched. Temperature of the wort at pitching was 76F. Placed the wort, covered in a light blanket, in our main room, which is at 60-62F at night, 63-65F by day. OG was 1.050 (kit says it should be 1.042).

    Day 2:
    The next day at noon, the wort was at 74F, with a thick head of foam. I removed the blanket. That evening, it was still at 74F. I moved the wort to our next room, which is generally at 58-60F, so cooler.

    Six hours later, the temperature was down to 68F.

    Day 3:
    Next morning, it was at 60F, still with a thick head.

    Day 5:
    This morning, the temperature is still 60F but the head is almost gone, maybe 1/8-1/4" thick. SG measures 1.028.

    I have read that Nottingham likes a cooler temperature, and I have read of people brewing with it down to the low 50s. The manufacturer (Lallemand) states that this yeast has an ideal temperature range of 50-72F, meaning I am right in the middle. I have also read that the yeast should be very active, and exothermic, for the first few days and that after that it will slow up and the foam will settle out.

    My question is: is this what is happening? Or did I shock the yeast by lowering the temperature too fast, moving it from one room to the other and taking away the blanket?

    I welcome any thoughts/suggestions, and my thanks.
     
    PapaGoose03 likes this.
  2. Jasonja1474

    Jasonja1474 Savant (1,100) Oct 15, 2018 Tennessee
    Trader

    I think it’s right on track. I would try and get the temp back up in the 70°s the last week of fermentation to help out with diacetal. In the end I think you will have a great beer. Your title says Nut Brown Ale and you mentioned Block Party Amber Ale? Little confused there. Don’t be surprised if some of the head “krausen” hangs around till bottling day. It won’t hurt a thing. To be honest some of my best beers were the ones I wasn’t so anal about and used cheap equipment.
     
  3. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    One more vote for "right on track".

    Wait until you have reached the final gravity before packaging (e.g., bottling). You will know you reached final gravity when you obtain the same specific gravity reading a couple/few days in a row.

    Cheers!

    P.S. Also smell/taste your hydrometer samples to enure there is no fermentation by-products like diacetyl (smells/tastes like butter/butterscotch), acetaldehyde (green apple).
     
  4. PapaGoose03

    PapaGoose03 Grand High Pooh-Bah (6,057) May 30, 2005 Michigan
    BA4LYFE Society Pooh-Bah

    Another vote that your beer is doing okay. You mention that your OG reading was 1.050 vs. what the recipe says it should have been, 1.042. Do you have the full 5 gallons of liquid, or perhaps you've overlooked that you have less liquid than expected because of boil-off. Losing liquid will cause your OG to read higher than expected because your wort is more concentrated.

    So the next question is, what is the recipe's predicted FG? On the fifth day you measured 1.028, so how does that compare to the predicted number. Again, if you had liquid loss due to boil-off, your reading will be higher than expected. Your abv will also be higher than expected, so be prepared for that effect. However, you can add some boiled/cooled water at the time of packaging to get back to the full 5 gallons and the expected abv. If you will be bottling your beer, you can use that liquid for dissolving your priming sugar.I

    P.S. Welcome to the BA site and to the Homebrewing forum. And to this great hobby!
     
  5. GormBrewhouse

    GormBrewhouse Pooh-Bah (2,111) Jun 24, 2015 Vermont
    Pooh-Bah

    And one more vote for the positive, welcome to the madness
    Brew on!
     
    KPlen and riptorn like this.
  6. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Just to emphasize to @michealtrichaife, if you decide to add water at bottling it must be boiled (e.g., for 15 minutes) to drive out dissolved oxygen otherwise this water addition would result in oxidation of your beer.

    If it was me I would not add water at bottling to ensure no additional oxygen added to the beer.

    Also, if your volume of beer is less than 5 gallons you will need to add less priming sugar at bottling (presuming you are bottling).

    Cheers!
     
  7. KPlen

    KPlen Zealot (503) Apr 19, 2017 Colorado

    I started also with the Northern Brewer Starter Kit and the Block Party Amber Ale just a year ago. Did one more extract batch after that and then moved on to All-Grain (just sampled my 2nd All-Grain batch yesterday). If you are anything like me, you will be purchasing a bunch more equipment soon (propane burner, large brew kettle, wort chiller, Mash Tun, HLT, etc.). Just so you know, it is well worth the money to purchase the additional/upgraded equipment and to move on to All-Grain brewing. All-Grain (at least to me) is more of a genuine experience when it comes to brewing. You are doing the whole process from beginning to end and I feel it is more rewarding, YMMV. Don't hesitate to reach out to these folks with questions, they are a wealth of information. Every question I have posted (a lot of them very rudimentary questions) have been answered even though they were probably asked before and I'm sure for some of my questions, eyes were rolled, but the questions were answered in a constructive manner. I would suggest you search my posts over the last year and I am betting a lot of the questions you may have will be answered in those posts. Welcome to the obsession!!
     
  8. jbakajust1

    jbakajust1 Pooh-Bah (2,552) Aug 25, 2009 Oregon
    Pooh-Bah

    I will also suggest getting it back to 70s for a week. Finish strong, clean up off flavors.
     
    utahbeerdude likes this.
  9. JrGtr

    JrGtr Pooh-Bah (1,775) Apr 13, 2006 Massachusetts
    Pooh-Bah

    You're on track, nothing to worry about - the foam settling just means that the yeast is finishing up the active part of fermentation. ||There's still more work to be done, so leave it alone for another while - I know I'm late to this party, so assuming you posted on day 5, you're about a week and a half. Give it minimum another few days, I personally give my beers 3 weeks in fermenter, before checking in on it.
    But, all that said, being that you were fermenting hot those first few days - at or above the temp threshold - you'll probably end up with some fusels in there that aren't ideal. It'll still be drinkable, but not perfect.
    |I would recommend for next time, get the wort temps as low as you can before pitching. it's slower to come down at that point.
    Also, if possible, keep it in a closet or somewhere dark, while fermenting. This will also keep the a,bient temps more stasble - a couple degrees here or there isn't a big deal, but any help is best.
     
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