Angus Springs Organic Brown Ale
Golden Valley Brewery and Pub

Golden Valley is said to be one of just a dozen restaurants in the entire country that raise their own beef cattle. (Probably the only one on the continent that raises its own cattle, presses its own wine, and brews its own beer.) Angus Springs is the name of the family ranch where cattle destined for the entrée menu are fattened on spent grains from this and other Golden Valley beers.

Though stylistically undercarbonated, Angus Springs is a highly charismatic brown ale beginning with an intriguing, slightly peaty aroma reminiscent of wet tobacco. The flavor is similarly profiled but with figgy malt fruits, a spin of caramel, and a mad, brackish complexity. Add a gentle foamy head and glowing cerise color with polished clarity and you’ve got the makings of a landmark beer.

I can’t think of another organic brown ale in Oregon, but if there is, there’s certainly none better. If “mojo” was a taste, this would be it.