Zustandfest Pils
Raccoon River Brewing Company

Acid-washed amber beneath a cotton white, cottony soft head that began life at two fingers and eventually faded to a thin, barely covering film. Despite my initial pessimism, a good deal of clingy lace was present on the glass in the end.

The nose was on the shy side. The main components were lemon zest and untoasted grain, with very little (if any) noble hoppiness. I enjoyed the clean, bright citrusiness, but lamented the fact that the aroma knob wouldn't go any higher.

The flavor was more citrusy than it was floral or grassy (odd for a beer brewed with 100% German Magnum hops). Drinking Zustandfest was like biting into a firm, crisp, not quite ripe Granny Smith apple and then immediately sucking the juice out of half a lemon. It was tart, snappily bitter and definitely not for the faint of palate.

Whatever malt was present was attempting to find the corners of the pint glass to cower in. The bitterness seemed to be cumulative, to build and feed off itself with each successive sip. While the flavor was well above average, I found myself loving it for the sheer, unsupported, unabashed, tongue ruffling bitterness. I don't know if the brewer ran out of malt or accidently knocked an extra pail of hops into the kettle, but I approve whether the end result was intended or unintended.

The finish was uber-clean and was as dry as desert dust. The mouthfeel was light-medium, probably favoring the former, and the fact that the beer was well-carbonated kept things on the lively side.

Zustandfest Pils was an appley, lemon zesty, Shock Tart of a beer that won't be everyone's cup of hops (I can't imagine the usual Des Moines brewpub goer enjoying it), but it was just what I needed this evening. Not only that, but at $2.25 per pint, it was like stealing.