Frank N Stein

You'd be forgiven for doubting Frank N Stein's existence. They're as small a brewery gets, they're tucked away near the border, they have no website, and they've disconnected their phone.

"Whatcom Brewing" used to exist separately as a cottage industry supplying beers for Frank N Stein, the brewer's bar. Whatcom has since retired its 5-bbl operation and now brews on a 1/2-bbl homebrew system at the Stein. The brewer assembles the brewing apparatus at the bar on brew day, then disassembles it after use.

The idea behind the name is that they serve frankfurters and mugs of beer. Get it? The place is positively tiny - a former barbershop - but draws a loyal assembly of mostly middle-aged men seeking an after-work sausage and pint. FNS features a focused selection of sausages, brats, and kielbasa, each prepared in several styles and offered with a variety of condiments. Beer options are limited to two house ales and two guest taps from Boundary Bay. Brewing involves guest homebrewers and friends and may occur infrequently. Quality therefore can't be generalized and is likely to vary. But my experience favors a positive review.

Owner / brewer Lloyd Zimmerman built the tall brass and stainless bar himself. Its imposing height makes it a "service counter" as opposed to a "bar", thus allowing children on premises. Zimmerman also carved the house tap handles, works as a nutritional therapist and serves on the city council. He claims to be a distant cousin of Bob Dylan. With his numerous side ventures, Zimmerman only opens the FNS for five hours on each of four days (W-Th-Fr-Sat). Though beverage offerings (including wine) are skeletal, Frank N Stein makes for a serviceable warm up before cruising towards Bellingham or North Fork.