D is for Denali
Relic Brewing Co.

 

 

 

 

Relic, though somewhat hit or miss at times, tends to make some of the very best hoppy pales I've had recently, and they tend to fly almost entirely under the radar while they do so. This is a new offering that utilizes Denali, a rather new hop that has some interesting parentage. It's related to Nugget and CTZ hops, and, therefore, I assume it has a very "West Coast" aspect to it. I don't expect it to be very fruity, considering its description as "spicy," though it does apparently have some citrus and tropical notes as well. We'll see!

Pours a bright golden-yellow color with some deeper undertones if held up to light. Foamy and sudsy head with moderate, appreciable lace that appears as somewhat watery and thin around the edges of my glass. Digging the decent legs here and the solid color/opacity combo. Doesn't stand out, but it's nice for what it is.

My first whiff is almost perfectly encapsulated by the words "lemon-lime soda." That's exactly what it smells like... almost shandy-like with a lemon-wheat aspect that doesn't seem bad, but also kind of blindsided me. The next note I pick up reminds me of straight up Nugget and/or Magnum hops... spicy and rather neutral with a little herbalness. Reminds me of brew day when first adding bittering hops. Light grapefruit rind and slight citrusy juiciness when I really get in the glass. Otherwise, a bit rough and grainy with surprising crackery/pilsner-like elements. Intriguing.

Tastes like a slightly tart shandy, honestly. That's really weird... it's a little bit bitter, though I mostly get a leafy and slightly citrusy note from the hops. It doesn't linger on the tongue, and each sip pretty much fades out on my palate after a few seconds. That said, there's a memorable character here, even if it isn't the best IPA I've had from Relic lately (that honor goes to Fortnight, for sure). Slight spice and earthy flavors with some grapefruit, lemon and a lot of lime rind... Denali seems like the American version of Motueka hops (which are a bit herbal and very lime-forward, but they remind me more of a tart lime than a juicy lime, if that makes sense), but with more of a punch, if this beer is any indication.

I actually really enjoy drinking this one, and find it to be simultaneously refreshing and worthy of consideration. At first, it seemed kind of one-note, but it opened up a bit once I got to the second half. Definitely still very citrusy and tart... not very juicy, and I would never consider this an NEIPA because the body is too spritzy and the hops are too bitter and firm. Airy body with prickly carbonation. Overall, very fun. I don't think I would want a four pack, but it's worth a shot and definitely showcases a unique hop in a cool way. Cheers to Relic!