Jefferson County
West Sixth Brewing Company

Now that the West Sixth team have the recipe for their Christmas ale ironed out, there's nowhere to go but deep! -deep inside the Cooper & Kings brandy barrels that is.

The much-anticipated Jefferson County commemoration beer pours with the friendly and astute deep burgundy color as does the standard Christmas Ale and with a similarly dense, frothy cap. But with the toasted molasses, raisin and cinnamon medley flooding the nose, so does a tinge of tang and spice from those brandy-soaked woods. And as the sultry molasses layers onto the tongue, the senses are awaken with notions of gingersnaps and fortified red wine.

As the ale evolves, its strong molasses taste gravitates toward spice cake, granola and toffee while the spiciness of cinnamon is joined with ginger and nutmeg. Its dense and creamy middle is balanced with the spices and a billowing alcohol warmth that plays a dominant role in the beer's finish. But along with the brandy come the sophisticated esters of plum, raisin, dark berry and cherry.

Closing with a full and certain cake-like density, the beer's reprieve comes when the brandy heat and the spice additions culminate in a semi-sweet but drying taste that leaves the tastebuds wanting more despite projecting a slow and savory sipping affair.