Madison County
West Sixth Brewing Company

Was not a fan of this bottle fresh, but cracked one open for the holiday, and the barrel has better integrated with the beer, becoming a sipper that packs a mega punch.

Taking both notions of barleywine and barrel aging to the extreme, the already strong, sweet and savory barleywine reaches new heights with fifteen percent alcohol and the unique fruity spiciness that only brandy barrels can impart. The next stop on West Sixth's "County" trail is Madison County.

Hazy, russet and mysteriously dark mahogany, the beer's pour is simply intimidating. Its spicy sweetness leaps onto the nose ever before its rich ecru lather has a chance to settle. Fortified wine, peppery spice and the sweet scent of sorghum and sarsaparilla. Highly savory, sweet and lavishly malted, the rich flavors of toffee, molasses, sorghum and honey carry a vinous sweetness as well for charm and intrigue.

The unwavering sweetness slathers the middle palate with malt decadence while reeling in more toasty and savory aspects of pecan, medium toast and faint chocolate. The fruit flavors unfold with notions of plum, blackberry, date, fig, raisin and brandy soaked apricots. Fruit flavors all seem of the dried stone fruit variety that shy away from the earthiness of prune. As the brandy spice builds a peppery, solventy taste, it brings an earthy bitterness of dried woods and light pine.

Undoubtedly full bodied and showcasing malt sweetness and a nearly oily malt substrate, the beer drinks like a fine port, sherry or madeira, equipped with those same savory oxidized notes that hinge on asian umami flavor. A long trail of maple and molasses lingers on the finish as its lavish malt sugary spiciness extends into the next unwavering taste.