Triple Digit Series: Chickow! Cherry Raspberry Chocolate
Listermann Brewing Company

 

Like wolves in sheep's clothing, the beer makers at Triple Digit nearly lives up to their namesake and puts out a beer that they call a brown ale but one that boasts the heft of ten percent in alcohol content. In other words, its a barleywine that's made out of the pieces and parts of brown ale.

The frankenstein of a beer that's revealed is Chickow. ...But not any Chickow; this one is woven together with the added character of cherry, raspberry, chocolate and hazelnut just in case that the original was missing out on any complexity. Dark brown but with deep garnet hues, the masculine ale settles with a creamy, off white foam blanket across the glass and invites the nose with a fruity fare. Cherry, berry, chocolate and booze align on the nose with a succulent, savory and tangy scent. But the taste of molasses, toffee and chocolate slather the tongue with opulence.

The middle palate shows quite the transition- those malty sweetnesses hold firm but they have to make room for the fruit to follow. Cherry and raspberry carry a robust red wine, near sherry, almost port kind of savory tartness along with the savory fruits to represent the most pleasant aspects of date, raisin, plum and fig. Like sweet sherry or a leathery madeira, the late palate is earthy with tobacco, macerated fruit and aged, fortified wine.

Full bodied, lavish and sweet, this aged Chickow is a slow and sipping affair. One that's balanced with fruit acidity, understated booze and a complex tawny port character. Save this one for after dinner aperitif or to replace dessert altogether. Its long undertow of fruit and malt play side by side in a long and savory, tart aftertaste.