Dark Alchemy
Atom Beers

330ml bottle into the appropriate Atom-branded stemmed schooner. Paid £2.40 for a single.

Pours an opaque, very dark brown, almost black body, that when held to the light allows some ruby tinges to be observed against the edges of the glass. A dense, creamy, two-finger in height, light tan coloured head with excellent retention slowly reduces to a thick film and collar, but leaves behind absolutely no lace of any kind.

Powerful notes of cardamom initially dominate the majority of the rich and complex nose. Underneath, a robust background of dark roasted malts, bittersweet chocolate, powdered cocoa, caramel, liquorice, mint and tart blackcurrant are easily identifiable, while subtler earthy and woody impressions become perceptible towards the back-end. Taste follows suit, leading initially with cardamom spice and an abundance of dark malt sweetness. Light notes of chocolate, cocoa and liquorice follow, with a sweet and intense blackcurrant cordial-like profile becoming apparent around the mid-palate. Towards the back-end, semi-sweet chocolate, dark roasted malts, and traces of mint combine with herbal, woody and tobacco-like impressions as very mild roast-driven bitterness begins to build. In the mouth, a light to medium body and appropriately low amounts of soft, fine carbonation give a thin but smooth and slick feel. Hints of slightly bitter dark chocolate and powdered cocoa outlast lingering blackcurrant, but still finish sweet and wet, with spice-derived astringency only developing long after the swallow.

Overall this is a decent beer. Characterful and robust, the inclusion of cardamom is a complimentary addition to the sweeter aspects of the malt bill. Despite imparting well-rounded complexity and some drying spice however, much greater roasted bitterness is needed for better balance and to fully substitute the absence of hops.