Olde World Porter
Big Horse Brew Pub / Horse Feathers & Co.

There’s a lot to like about this beer including its slightly roasty aroma, the hearty, opaque body with suntanned head, and the complex peaty / brandy-like character. But first I must mention that I’m not fond of the name. This brew hints at being a porter, it suggests porterness, but it strays far from customary porter territory. It’s hardly a porter at all – really more of a barley cordial or after dinner beer. It’s also not especially old world style as the historic porters of 18th and 19th century London were almost certainly less than 6.0% ABV.

But “Olde World Porter” such as it is, is seductively sweet and inspiring with just a vague afterthought of smoke. The smell is like ferns and frankincense. Its imposing black color yields just slightly to mahogany. The taste starts solidly with strong malts teased to a fruity liqueur. The ambient smoke and peat lend an austere secondary flavor profile that keeps Olde World Porter close to the hearth.

If you can keep your sense of semantics from crossing with your sense of taste, Olde World Porter will deliver abundant satisfaction.