Vagant Svetloye
Promfintorg M Company

When looking for a specific beer, don't forget to check right under your nose. The product of a small Moscow microbrewery, this beer is quite difficult to find. I heard about it a few months ago at the Moscow Beer Festival, but couldn't locate it. Then I stopped at the dumpy old Soviet-style hotel right across the street from where I work, and Voila! There it was. On tap, no less.

It came in a half liter brandy snifter. The color was a slightly pale clear gold, with a big four-fingered head that told me the bartender didn't know how to pour it correctly. The head had lots of body and longevity, and left some good lace down the glass. The nose is, unfortunately, quite a put off: strong and citrusy, with a touch of cabbage. The mouth was light and prickly. There is a bit of malt in the opening, but it is quickly overwhelmed by the hoppy bitterness. More metallic than flowery, some might call the taste harsh, but I found it invigorating. The taste finishes with a nice long smooth bite at the back of the mouth. It's too bad the nose was so nasty, as this was actually quite an enjoyable brew.