Zero
Abettor Brewing Company

 

Basic, simple, drinkable but characterful ale are missing from the beer shelves. Beers of subtle nuances, even keel balance and restraint seem to have no place in today’s beer culture. But Abettor is zeroing in on a classic American red ale that hits the target every time.

Pouring a true ruddy amber and cast in a slight haze, Zero floats a creamy but dainty off white cap while soothing the scent with caramel, popcorn, citrus and spruce. As its malty upstart carries a senses of toffee, caramel and honey onto the tongue, it does so in a dry and toasty way.

As the ale splashes the middle palate, the hops come alive to share flavors of orange peel and grapefruit even as the malt dries to a crisp and toasty support. Trending balanced in its bitterness, the hops carry and peppery resinous taste with pine and citrus peel in an almost coffee-like finish.

Medium bodied but finishing toasty-dry, the beer is a classic red ale that takes the senses back to the early days of microbreweries. But it also shows that the needs of beer like this are still welcomed on the shelves and on the palate.