Tuck's Brewery

Part of the tragedy of living in a great beer town is that there are so many great beer halls and brewpubs that even excellent local brewers can be overlooked. Such is the case with Tuck’s, a terrific craft brewpub that hasn’t gotten nearly the attention it deserves. Tuck’s brews a full roster of sensibly balanced ales, typically with full mouthfeel and northern German influence.

The history of Tuck’s dates back to the 1920’s when The Cider Mill Restaurant opened by the side of Capital Highway. The sale of alcohol was of course PROHIBITED BY LAW back then so only food and fresh cider were served publicly. Eventually the 18th Amendment was declared UNCONSTITUTIONALLY STUPID and the people of Portland were able to legally enjoy beer once again. The Cider Mill expanded its physical dimensions, added beer to their offerings, and there was much rejoicing.

In the 1960’s the owners bought a fried chicken franchise called Fryer Tuck’s. Fryer Tuck’s later collapsed as a chain with our local franchise being the sole survivor. New owners later took the reigns who bought the building next door and opened it as a commercial microbrewery in 1999. Today Tuck’s Brewery, the Cider Mill Restaurant and bar, and the surviving Fryer Tuck’s chicken outlet comprise three interlinked entities that have been serving good times to the people of Portland for nearly 80 years.

Tuck’s draught beers are distributed locally but the Cider Mill is the obvious place to enjoy them. The bar at the Cider Mill is a true work of art with a faux log cabin exterior, stained glass interiors, and a dazzling copper ceiling reflecting candles and colored lights. There’s a gas-burning fireplace in the back room, a highly utilized video poker alcove, and live music on Friday nights – usually blues, and usually free. Oh, and there’s smoke everywhere. Lots and lots of smoke. Even when nobody’s smoking. Even as the waitstaff dutifully empty the ashtrays every ten minutes. The smoke is unrelenting. It’s all but apocalyptic.

I counted a total of 16 taps, seven of which were Tuck’s, and of these, six are likely to be regular offerings with one seasonal. A few other regional micros such as Jubelale are also served though sadly, this isn’t nearly the beer bar it should be. My informal survey showed that of 13 people at the bar, only two were drinking Tuck’s beer, one was drinking PBR, and the rest were sipping mixed drinks. That’s a shame because Tuck’s makes some very tasty beers that deserve greater local appreciation.

There’s a lot to like at the Cider Mill. The staff are not especially knowledgeable about beer, but are friendly and quick to run a stranger a tab. I’ve never failed to see dogs at the bar and they’re very friendly too. As for Fryer Tuck’s chicken, well, fried chicken is by definition a greasy food. But when you’re in the mood for some good fresh fried chicken, this is some good fresh fried chicken. I do reserve some criticism for their “pints” which don’t especially resemble the standard 16 oz. variety, though at $2.75 a “pint” it’s still a decent value.

Tuck's Brewery sits on the other side of the parking lot and doesn’t actually serve beer, but opens it’s doors from noon ‘till 6PM on Saturdays for FREE tastings. It’s worth noting that although I didn’t get the opportunity to review Tuck’s Imperial Kölsch, I sampled this brew at the Portland International Beerfest and thought it was the best of all their offerings.