Portlander March Lager
Laurelwood Brewing Co.

March Lager is a new style to me, but it does have some similarities to a marzen. A reddish amber with small sticky head, it's malty and round with evidence of Vienna malts. There's very little hop presence and none of the spiciness that made Laurelwood's seasonal Oktoberfest beer such an authentic success. Like many of their beers, it's amazingly clean with no off flavors, if a trifle emasculated. Still, I found it tasty and drinkable, and will probably return to the brewpub to try it again sometime soon. These kind of lagers (amber/vienna/marzen) always pair excellently with food due to a combination of slight roastiness, mild sweetness and bitterness, and a refreshing clean finish. This beer is no exception.

The color of this beer is its best feature, a sad commentary I’m afraid. This 2nd lager of a 2004 trilogy is headless, laceless, and lacks any discernable aroma. It is also lacking in flavor. There is no bouquet, no delicacy or finesse. It is bitter without inspiring any appreciation of the hop and the mouthfeel is taut and astringent. A non-committal neutrality is perhaps its most central defining property.

While not possessing any appreciable off-notes, the beer I was served was tired and lackluster. But the color is a delightfully rosy coppertone. Very pretty.