Bay & Pepper Your Bretts
Against The Grain Brewery

Traditional farmhouse ale had no problem unleashing an array of flavors that represent the earth, vegetation and terrior of the region. And as both food makers and beer makers dip their toe into today's culinary scene with the plethora of ingredients and combinations, the comings together of Chef Josh Lehman and Against the Grain brewers not only sample these wares, they exploit them.

The beer that boasts bay leaves and peppercorns pours with a hazy straw color and an arid, frothily, loose-knit but rocky foam stance. Strongly of pepper additions and natural saison spice, the aromas are of dry citrus, saddle leather, cork and undeniable fresh-cracked peppercorn. Yet on the flip-side, the taste sides with the fruit as those musty citruses billow with the malty support of sweetheart confectioner's candy and bread dough.

But the ale simply explodes on the tongue- the militant effervescence breaks up the bready-sweet malts and ushers in a strong wine-like influence that plays out over a cast of drunken fruit. Grapefruit, orange, lemon, lime, crabapple, guava, melon and kiwi all have their turn peaking through the exoskeleton of malt; only to land at the spicy precipice that holds emboldened notes of agave, oak, chardonnay, damp hay and a lightly peaten twinge of burnt embers.

Its creamy and arid mouthfeel is medium-light early but dries beautifully with a grave sense of urgency. The evaporative heat that plays out above sends the aura of tequilla, lime and salt straight through the finish, carrying with them the woodsy character of musty balsa and weathered oak.