Hillbilly White
Astoria Brewing Company

“White” is always relative in describing this traditional Belgian beer style. The word only has meaningful application in comparison to darker ales and few Northwest examples of the style come close to emulating the bright shading of Celis, for example. Astoria Brewing’s effort is notable for being a shade whiter than regionally available versions of Belgian wits. Its ochre tones are bright and the body is creamed and pale with a soft white head and flirtatious lace.

As for the customary coriander and orange peel adjuncts, they are perhaps slightly evident in the smell but don’t make a notable appearance in the taste. Instead, the flavor is dutifully subservient to Belgian yeasts, making for a credible and drinkable replication of a Belgian wheat ale. The finish however, is sharp, bitter, and not customary.