Input on first solo homebrew

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by MyThoughtsExactly, Jun 25, 2015.

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  1. MyThoughtsExactly

    MyThoughtsExactly Initiate (0) Jun 10, 2015 Virginia

    Doing my first solo brew and wanted some input on the recipe. I'm basing it partly off of an old thread about a Citra heavy APA. Here is what I have so far.

    7 lbs Light Liquid Malt Extract (half at boil, half at 15 mins)
    0.75 lbs Crystal 40L

    0.5 oz Simcoe - 60 mins
    0.5 oz Citra - 15 mins
    0.5 oz Citra- 10 mins
    1 oz Citra - 5 mins
    1 oz Citra - flame out
    2 oz Citra - dry hop (7 days)

    Safare US-05 Dry Ale Yeast

    Any suggested changes to the malt or hop schedule?
     
  2. CurtFromHershey

    CurtFromHershey Initiate (0) Oct 4, 2012 Minnesota

    I'd probably add another oz each at FO and dry hop.

    Also, if you have access to it, I'd make the late extract addition with DME as opposed to LME. The LME will sink to the bottom and scorch if you keep the flame on, and you'll lose your boil if you turn the flame off to stir.

    Will you be using tap water or distilled/RO water?
     
  3. harsley

    harsley Maven (1,261) Jun 16, 2005 Massachusetts

    If I was making this beer, with 5 oz of Citra, I'd add 3 oz at flameout and then dry hop with 2. Ditch the 15, 10 & 5 additions.
     
  4. MyThoughtsExactly

    MyThoughtsExactly Initiate (0) Jun 10, 2015 Virginia

    Thanks for the advice. I'll rearrange for more late hop additions.

    3.5 LME at boil and 3 lbs DME at 15 minutes?

    I'll be using distilled water.
     
  5. Lukass

    Lukass Pooh-Bah (2,807) Dec 16, 2012 Ohio
    Pooh-Bah Society

    Looks good to me. I think if you were to stick with this recipe's hop schedule, then you won't even need to add the simcoe at 60 min and you can call it a single hop PA. Plus, it'll be plenty 'citra heavy'! Either way though, the one you proposed sounds good as well so I expect you'll be good either way.
     
  6. shredder83

    shredder83 Initiate (0) Feb 21, 2013 Illinois

    I've always felt that hop forward beers with only bittering and flame out additions were missing something, that 15 minute one would give you more flavor and the late additions more aroma. I'd keep the 15 minute one with an oz.
     
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  7. MyThoughtsExactly

    MyThoughtsExactly Initiate (0) Jun 10, 2015 Virginia

    I was actually looking to do full citra but heard early additions can give a funky flavor. Didn't think of doing all additions @15 or later.

    Here is an updated single hop version.

    3.5 lbs LME (at boil)
    3 lbs DME (at 15 mins)
    0.75 lbs Crystal 40L

    1 oz Citra - 15 mins
    1 oz Citra- 10 mins
    1 oz Citra - 5 mins
    1 oz Citra - flame out
    2 oz Citra - dry hop (7 days)

    Safare US-05 Dry Ale Yeast
     
    Lukass likes this.
  8. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,043) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah Society

    You didn't mention the Alpha Acid % of your citra. So just make sure you'll be getting as many IBUs as you want.
     
  9. CurtFromHershey

    CurtFromHershey Initiate (0) Oct 4, 2012 Minnesota

    Yup that grain schedule looks good.
     
  10. Lukass

    Lukass Pooh-Bah (2,807) Dec 16, 2012 Ohio
    Pooh-Bah Society

    That'll work! But, don't let me talk you out of your original recipe either, as that one looks good as well.
     
  11. MyThoughtsExactly

    MyThoughtsExactly Initiate (0) Jun 10, 2015 Virginia

    Since all the hops will be added at 15 mins or below, do I need to do a full 60 minute boil or can I do less?

    Just picked up my Citra and AA is 14%. IBU calculator says an IBU in the low 40s when using a 3.5 gallon boil, which is right about where I would like it to be.
     
  12. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,043) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah Society

    I would still boil for 60 minutes. There are other reasons besides alpha acid isomerization for the boil, including DMS formation and removal. Here's a link that explains a lot of it pretty well...
    https://byo.com/grains/item/1650-wort-boiling-homebrew-science

    Edit: Just remembered this is an extract batch. A lot of the things that happen in the boil have been at least partially accomplished during the manufacture of the LME and DME. You probably could get away with a somewhat shorter boil. But if you do that, you'll need to reduce your total water used, accordingly. And if you start with a smaller volume in the kettle, you'll also reduce hop utilization.
     
    #12 VikeMan, Jun 25, 2015
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2015
  13. MyThoughtsExactly

    MyThoughtsExactly Initiate (0) Jun 10, 2015 Virginia

    I figured it that was the case, thanks for the clarification.

    Plan on brewing tomorrow in order to start fermentation while the weather is still around 70. I'll post updates for those interested.
     
  14. aobrehm

    aobrehm Initiate (0) Jun 18, 2015 Oregon

    Plenty has already been said about your hop schedule so I'll leave that be, but I would like to make a suggestion regarding the grain bill. Many APA recipes call for a small amount (.5 lb) of something like carapils to add body and head retention. This won't do much to your beer in terms of color, flavor, or gravity, but might give you more of that classic APA mouthfeel.

    If you've already purchased your ingredients, this is no big deal. Brew on. But perhaps consider making a similar batch again in the future with some carapils to see if you notice the difference.
     
  15. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,043) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah Society

    I don't necessarily think an APA needs carapils, but assuming for the sake of argument that it does... the extract in the OP's recipe very likely already contains carapils.
     
  16. CurtFromHershey

    CurtFromHershey Initiate (0) Oct 4, 2012 Minnesota

    I'm not sure I follow this. With a longer boil, water would be added at the beginning to account for the extra boil-off, but wouldn't the two processes be identical in terms of volumes and gravities from 15 minutes and in? I mean, if he's adding the right amount of extra water for the additional boil time, that same amount should boil off in that amount of time, right?
     
  17. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,043) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah Society

    Yep, you're right. I had a senior moment. Thanks for catching that.
     
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  18. MyThoughtsExactly

    MyThoughtsExactly Initiate (0) Jun 10, 2015 Virginia

    Any recommendations for how long to stir after adding hops at flameout? I found a couple forums discussing flameout hops and what to expect in terms of IBU additions. Some suggest 20 minutes of stirring before cooling the wort give the equivalent of a 2 minute boil. Is that about right?
     
  19. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,181) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah Society

    You may be interested in this article by Dave Green (@telejunkie):

    https://byo.com/stories/issue/item/2808-hop-stands

    I am not sure how critical it is to constantly stir the hops. When I personally conduct a hop stand I add the hops post boil and stir for about a minute and then just let the hops ‘stand’ for the remaining timeframe (e.g., 40 minutes for my IPAs).

    Dave, how critical is it to constantly stir the hops for a hop stand?

    Cheers!
     
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  20. MyThoughtsExactly

    MyThoughtsExactly Initiate (0) Jun 10, 2015 Virginia

    Thanks for the reference. Funny enough, I actually came across that article when trying to figure this out. Assuming a 10% utilization rate, 20 minutes would give me an additional 3 IBUs which is what I need to be in the low 40s.

    In terms of whether to stir or not the article does say "Keep in mind that you do not need a vigorous whirlpool; just a simple spinning of the wort. If you do not have a pump, a simple spoon or paddle will work to achieve the same results." I'll probably do a slight stirring of the wort.
     
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