Northeast Pales/IPA/DIPA

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by hoptualBrew, Jul 31, 2015.

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  1. GetMeAnIPA

    GetMeAnIPA Pooh-Bah (2,559) Mar 28, 2009 California
    Pooh-Bah

    We kinda went over that in a precious thread. Just curious if the recipe had water specific for the trillium clone. You can use the exact same ingredients and hit all the numbers right but if the water is different it could be a completely different beer.

    Cheers.
     
  2. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    There is indeed discussion concerning water in the "Tips for success" section. I will leave it to Dave to discuss this topic.

    Cheers!
     
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  3. SFACRKnight

    SFACRKnight Grand Pooh-Bah (3,348) Jan 20, 2012 Colorado
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    Since there hasnt been an averagely perfect poll in a while to fulfill my nerd needs via statistics I need to exercise my brain via scientific method.
     
  4. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    Averagely Perfect Northeast IPA. Hmmm.
     
  5. SFACRKnight

    SFACRKnight Grand Pooh-Bah (3,348) Jan 20, 2012 Colorado
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    You think the APA Saison was crazy, wait for that one. So much hurt feels.
     
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  6. telejunkie

    telejunkie Savant (1,107) Sep 14, 2007 Vermont

    Nope...no specifics...just ratios to build on and experiment with from both Sean Lawson & JC. I wouldn't be surprised though that they keep the ratio or only slightly modify the ratios and change the actual numbers based on what beer they're making. Just a guessing on that point. But to go back to earlier post, I think you as a homebrewer need to experiment to come up with your own numbers. I think it's pretty ridiculously generous of them to even divulge their ratios.
     
  7. GetMeAnIPA

    GetMeAnIPA Pooh-Bah (2,559) Mar 28, 2009 California
    Pooh-Bah

    Thanks! I am brewing this weekend and it will be the first time I adjust my calcium chloride on an ipa. Going to bump it up to around 100ppm. Also I am not using any Conan or london yeast to see how the water adjustment only plays a role on mouthfeel....cheers.
     
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  8. telejunkie

    telejunkie Savant (1,107) Sep 14, 2007 Vermont

    I'll give a bit of a shameless plug...I do highly recommend picking up the September issue of BYO (and maybe the Oct 13 issue with the VT clones)...some really great recipes in the Sept 15 issue, several by @koopa and a story on trying to brew the original Michelob by @JackHorzempa. Nothing by HB42 in this issue, but he's back for the October issue...and of course OldSock who is in every issue.
    I've brewed three of the recipes in the Sept issue so far and have been happy with them all (4th one is on deck).
     
  9. GetMeAnIPA

    GetMeAnIPA Pooh-Bah (2,559) Mar 28, 2009 California
    Pooh-Bah

    I'll have to pick it up when get my ingredients. It will help on my next brew day...cheers!
     
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  10. BeboThoughts

    BeboThoughts Zealot (559) Mar 24, 2012 Canada (ON)
    Trader

    What mash pH are you guys shooting for to make these delicious nectars?
     
  11. psnydez86

    psnydez86 Initiate (0) Jan 4, 2012 Pennsylvania

    I usually shoot for 5.2 or 5.3. This is important but having a 150-200 ppm of chloride is even more important IMO.
     
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  12. hoptualBrew

    hoptualBrew Initiate (0) May 29, 2011 Florida

    @joealati , homebrew can sit in carboy on yeast for a couple of months at least without off flavor. On such a small scale (5 gallon) you have relatively no head pressure exerting stress on the yeast. Commercial breweries fermenting in 15 bbl conical fermenters, for example, want to rack off yeast and get beer off the yeast quickly because of the high amount of top pressure that exerts stress on the flocced out yeast, which if left could autolysize.

    Simple answer to youre question: don't worry about getting you're beer off yeast quick, as long as no oxygen is getting in the fermenter. Wait until you're gravity is stable for 3 days before cold crashing and bottling. When the gravity gets low like you're saying 1.014, go ahead and shake the carboy a bit to rouse yeast to finish up the ferment. If 3 days later you're gravity is still 1.014, you're safe to cold crash and bottle. If it drops, to 1.012 for example, repeat this process. This will ensure no bottle bombs. If you have the ability, you can also raise temp to help the yeast finish up.
     
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  13. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    For your consideration below is what @Peter_Wolfe posted concerning how long to keep beer in the primary (on yeast) for the homebrew scale.

    “You'll start seeing low level autolysis after about 3 weeks, IF 1) you started with healthy yeast, and 2) the fermentation temp was kept low (68F or under the whole time). If you start with unhealthy yeast or heat stress it, it'll happen sooner. It takes 6-8 weeks to start seeing wholesale autolysis that gives off the soy sauce flavor if you never transfer off of primary. In a big dark beers (especially stouts), this flavor is pretty effectively masked until it gets really bad, but it shows up like crazy in pale ales.

    As they autolyze, the yeast release enzymes, lipids, and metal cations that all have a negative effect on flavor. Best way to forestall this if you know it's gonna be a while until you get to it is to cold crash it. The yeast will not autolyze for a very long time if you cool it down to 34-36 (cool fridge temps). You could have your parents throw the carboy in a fridge if they have room and you'll have some peace of mind.”

    http://www.beeradvocate.com/communi...-too-long-in-the-primary.283588/#post-3572265
     
  14. SFACRKnight

    SFACRKnight Grand Pooh-Bah (3,348) Jan 20, 2012 Colorado
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    Mouthfeel is middle of the road. Not full on soft, but not watery either. Next time I am going to kash and play with water chemistry a bit. Honestly, its a damn fine beer either way though, and an all grain version will be in my well house for certain. The wet hop addition really shines.
     
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  15. GetMeAnIPA

    GetMeAnIPA Pooh-Bah (2,559) Mar 28, 2009 California
    Pooh-Bah

    What type of hop schedule did you choose? Is the only difference the yeast from your usual IPAs? Sorry, if you already provided that previously, a lot of different replies and conversations I may have missed it.
     
  16. SFACRKnight

    SFACRKnight Grand Pooh-Bah (3,348) Jan 20, 2012 Colorado
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    0.5 oz chinook @ 60min
    1.5oz citra @ 30 (I really like what a 30 min addition brings to my profile)
    0.5 oz of chinook citra and centennial @ 10 minutes
    0.5 oz citra and chinook @ flameout
    5.0 gallon bucket of fresh picked centennials hop stand @170
    dry hopped first addition 7 days into fermentation added to primary
    1 oz ea citra centennial nelson stayed in beer for seven days
    second addition added 2 days after first dryhop addition
    1 oz ea citra Amarillo nelson
    bottled after seven days total dryhopping.
     
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  17. GetMeAnIPA

    GetMeAnIPA Pooh-Bah (2,559) Mar 28, 2009 California
    Pooh-Bah

    That's sounds like one tasty hop bomb!
     
  18. Misterphinister

    Misterphinister Initiate (0) Feb 17, 2015 Michigan

    You added a 5 gallon bucket of hops at hopstand??!!:grimacing::grimacing: How many gallons did you end up with on the other side of fermenting?? I'd imagine you lost at least 2 to 3 gallons off your liquid volume with that schedule
     
  19. SFACRKnight

    SFACRKnight Grand Pooh-Bah (3,348) Jan 20, 2012 Colorado
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    They were wet, I gained volume.
     
  20. jlordi12

    jlordi12 Pooh-Bah (1,856) Jun 8, 2011 Massachusetts
    Pooh-Bah

    Jack, I thought I saw someone post a screen shot of the recipe. Do you recall where that link was?
     
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