Visiting - Need Help!

Discussion in 'Germany' started by Beer_Economicus, Apr 4, 2023.

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  1. Beer_Economicus

    Beer_Economicus Pooh-Bah (2,698) Apr 8, 2017 Ohio
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    So, I am now midway through my trip. Some quick comments.

    1. The landing time of arriving in Germany in the AM after leaving in the US on PM is brutal. I thought it would be OK if I stayed up that first day, but still sucked. That night by body slept for 3-4 hours, then said time to get up. I even stayed up till almost midnight to try to force it. I also tried to go back to sleep for hours, but it just never worked. I am glad that I planned sufficiently.

    Also, it took about 5 days before my body was fully adjusted. 6 hour time difference for me.

    2. Got a rental for part so far. Hwys are far more congested than I expected. Drive times are not realistic as a result - need to add time. Not sure if everything is clogged because people are coming back from holiday, school starting again etc. (if European start dates are similar to US college start dates).

    Took a day or two to adjust to driving here, but not much. But, I drive a lot for work and personal. I did read and watch videos about driving differences.

    One thing to note: despite it being heavily suggested online that no one drives in the left late - that it is used just for passing, and that it is unlike the US - I find this to be a gross exaggeration. Probably 80% of the vehicles I saw use the left hand lane didn’t get over to the right hand lane after they passed someone. Just kept going.

    3. I vastly underestimated how difficult it would be to communicate. I got the impression that English would be on some menus, or if not most people speak enough English to communicate a little about things like menus. Not at all. This is one thing I am struggling with hard core. Sitting down, looking at a menu, and having no idea what it says. I have tried several apps to translate, but they have not worked well.

    4. I got the Verizon $10/day unlimited international plan. It has been working well overall, and service most everywhere. Sometimes it is not always fast, but I can’t imagine navigating without it. I mean, I have lots of experience navigating before GPS was a thing, writing down directions etc. but I haven’t done that in 10 or 12 years now. It isn’t something I want to go back to, and if I have the option, I won’t. on that note, it may say I have 3 bars of 5G, but it often feels more like 1-2 bars or 3 bars of LTE.



    I have enjoyed my time here so far, I am just trying to be honest about my experiences so that it may help others.
     
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  2. Beer_Economicus

    Beer_Economicus Pooh-Bah (2,698) Apr 8, 2017 Ohio
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    A friend from BA but is not active here anymore (never really was) suggested google translate (the app). It works the way it is supposed to. I feel liberated, and look forward to going to almost anyplace I want. Let’s see!
     
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  3. einhorn

    einhorn Savant (1,175) Nov 3, 2005 California

    @Beer_Economicus While living in Germany (and having a lot of vacation) I totally forgot about the flight from ORD-FRA. It left at like 4pm and arrived in FRA at about 8am CET. Brutal indeed. I usually took an immediate shower and got breakfast and then tried to nap for 2-3 hours. I'd try to do some sort of physical activity to make it through the afternoon.

    Definitely an entire "throw away" day. Glad you planned accordingly.
     
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  4. cu29

    cu29 Zealot (570) Sep 26, 2005 Wisconsin

    Google translate works well. The app (at least on android) has a camera icon in the lower right corner that when pressed and then focused on text translates it. You can also snap a pic of the text and zoom in, etc. Great for menus.

    I generally arrive in Germany from the US in the a.m. No naps! I head out and start my day. Then by later in the afternoon into the evening, I enjoy plenty of beer. I stay up until at least 10:00pm, then crash hard. Wake up at a normal time the next day, no jet lag. Normal sleep pattern moving forward.

    The tough part for me is when I return home. Tired as hell at night, then waking up around 4:00am with no hope of getting back to sleep. Slowly gets back to normal within about 5 days.
     
  5. spartan1979

    spartan1979 Pundit (970) Dec 29, 2005 Missouri

    I'm the same way. Power through the first day there. Go to bed at the normal time. Sleep 9-11 hours. Good to go. Going home takes a week or more to adjust.
     
  6. Beer_Economicus

    Beer_Economicus Pooh-Bah (2,698) Apr 8, 2017 Ohio
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    I’ll make this plea one additional time, just in case it is seen by anyone in the next 30 hours:

    Can anyone help walk me through what customs will be like here in Germany - or, if it only occurs once I land, then there. I have bought chocolate, some candies, and some jams/jellies to take home. Also a scarf for my daughter, and 2 steins (from a flea market - one for myself, and another for a fellow BA). I have kept receipts for everything, although no receipt for flea market steins. Oh, and I plan to bring back 3-6 (total) beers ranging from 12-16oz each.

    I’m trying to figure out if I should put the receipts in the suitcase with the items and a note, or if I should keep them with me. Do I “declare” here (before I check it), or there (once I land)? Are fees going to be outrageous? With the large VAT, I assume not, but I don’t know how this works. This is really my first trip, and I’ve never had to declare something. The only thing I have had is in Mexico I brought back a bottle of tequila, but the place I bought it from had the tax stamp, so it was duty free.

    just a bit nervous. I fly out Wed AM.
     
  7. Pacioli1445

    Pacioli1445 Pundit (901) Nov 13, 2012 South Dakota

    Clearing customs is done at your arrival airport in the US. There are a few airports in Europe where it is done prior to departure, but I'm pretty sure none are in Germany. You will receive a form on the plane prior to landing (unless it is now done electronically at the immigration kiosks, I haven't flown internationally in a couple years). The form asks if you have anything to declare. Based on what you stated, you probably will be bringing in items totaling less than a couple hundred dollars. The fact is, US Customs isn't going to care. My approach has always been to list types of items generically ("candy", "souvenirs", etc) with a very rough estimate of value. No one is going to ask you for receipts.

    Customs duties aren't meant to hit typical tourists. They apply more to commercial items for resale, fine art, and other high value items. I've been through customs probably 30 times, and never once been quizzed about what I declared on the customs forms or underwent any kind of search.

    Follow up: The threshold for having to pay customs duties is $800. I'm guessing you will be safely under that. So my advice is just to be totally honest on the customs forms, with no need to be exact, or to provide documentation. Long story short, don't sweat it, and enjoy your last few days in Germany!
     
  8. einhorn

    einhorn Savant (1,175) Nov 3, 2005 California

  9. Beer_Economicus

    Beer_Economicus Pooh-Bah (2,698) Apr 8, 2017 Ohio
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    Thanks to you and @einhorn . I had searched, and searched, and was having a very difficult time finding information. It is normally not bad to locate a very specific question (how much alcohol can I bring into Canada from the US, for example), but I was just having a terrible time trying to figure out about the customs process in general.

    Once I am back, I plan to do a write up for anyone that might find this. I may also cross-post it as a general post within the regular BA “general” category, as I think it could be useful.

    I’ve been to probably 20 kiosks and 7 “beer stores”, and there is essentially nothing but Pils and Helles. I like those beers, but I have drank plenty. I am surprised there is really so little of any other style.
     
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  10. rodndtube

    rodndtube Zealot (643) Feb 24, 2007 Maryland
    BA4LYFE Society

    Customs processing in the USA has been changing a lot the past 5 to 10 years. It should be virtually all kiosk/atm-type based. One year ago, returning from Costa Rica I had 3 or 4 liter bottles of rum--I was quizzed on that, told them I thought a gallon was allowed. This past June there were no questions about my 4-liter package. Not sure how they treat beer and wine.

    My Google Fi (Motorola phone) works seemlessly in Germany and Costa Rica. A few years ago in Hungary, I would have to reinitialize the carrier every couple of hours but it worked well. Fi runs on the T-Mobile backbone in the USA and the German dominate player is in the T-Mobile family. Fi data use overseas is charged at the same rate as in the USA. Someplaces, wherever one is, will hit blind spots. Somewhere in South Dakota I noticed my Fi connection was using Verizon.

    The Deutschland-Ticket (D-Ticket) has been a relatively new rollout over the summer. The DB site has only been selling the subscription using a Eurobank-based debit card system, but many of the transit associations sell it via a credit card, e.g., the Munich transit system (MVV). It is 49 Euro/month and has to be canceled (suspended) before the 10th of the month for the following month, in other words no later than 10th of October to suspend for November and beyond. It is good for 2nd class seats on regional or local transit (trains Regional Express RE and Regional milktrain RB, S- & U-trains, trams, buses). Not valid for ICE and IC.

    Very sorry you will jinxed limited to pils and helles. And you spent 3 days in Munich? But, yes, northern Germany tends to be more limited in options, but usually the black bier is available (Schwartzbier sp).
     
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  11. WhatANicePub

    WhatANicePub Zealot (712) Jul 1, 2009 Scotland

    Visitors to Germany are sometimes surprised and disappointed that they cannot get an Altbier in Munich or a Doppelbock in Hamburg. You are not going to find a bar with 20 taps serving all the different German styles, that is just not how German bars work. (If you do find a bar with 20 taps, they will probably have 20 IPAs).

    In Germany most of the time you will be drinking the dominant local style, whatever it is, and it may be difficult to even find anything else.
     
  12. einhorn

    einhorn Savant (1,175) Nov 3, 2005 California

    This due to having almost exclusively tied houses. Many breweries own the buildings in which bars/restaurants are located, or they tie the house to the brewery and not the party leasing the space. Crazy amount of (legal) financial shenanigans.
     
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  13. rodndtube

    rodndtube Zealot (643) Feb 24, 2007 Maryland
    BA4LYFE Society

    Even though many bars/restaurants/pubs have tie-ins with specific brands such as in Munich: Augustiner, Hofbrau, Paulaner, etc., seldom did I ever encounter less than 5 style offerings.
     
  14. hopfenunmaltz

    hopfenunmaltz Pooh-Bah (2,635) Jun 8, 2005 Michigan
    Pooh-Bah

    I just smile when an American tells me you don't need to know the German language in Germany. That tells me the have stayed in American chain hotels in the major cities, and haven't gotten out of the tourist areas.
     
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  15. Beer_Economicus

    Beer_Economicus Pooh-Bah (2,698) Apr 8, 2017 Ohio
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    Doing this from a mobile device, so please forgive any mistakes I have missed.

    This was my first international trip alone, first outside North America, and only my second to a country that does not speak English.

    1. I am grateful for the opportunity. It was an experience that I was only able to afford, because it was based around a work trip. I just extended that trip by a few days to explore, since the existence of the work trip is an all day affair.

    2. Lessons learned:
    • Make sure you know some German. I did - enough to get by (mostly) while ordering food, but not enough to convey everything.
    • If you have allergies, make sure to bring a paper stating everything explicitly.
    • See tourist stuff. It is tourist for a reason - fun, cool, exciting.
    • European beds are absolutely the worst. I mean, possibly worse than my camping setup. I have a bad back/spine. The beds are hard, thin. Even in a nice hotel, in a suite (only option left at time of booking - not a choice), the bed did not matter. Incredibly uncomfortable. Resulted in a lot of lost time due to an inability to sleep, rest successfully.
    • Public transport is not difficult, but there is a learning curve. Expect and plan for that. Watch others. Learn. Plan plenty of time first days.
    • Watch videos/read about what to do/not do in country. Not so you don’t look stupid (a plus), but so you can be a sort of normal person. A good example of this - I felt like it was important for me to understand the difference between danke, danke schön, bitte, bitte schön and gern/gern geschehen (which I never heard anyone actually say, but I learned the latter, and I guess the former is kind of slang, but has become more common amongst the younger generation vernacular?). Also, briefing yourself on information is Important if you want to drive.
    • If you get a rental, plan for google or Apple Maps to be off. If it says 40 minutes, plan an hour. If it says 2.5h, plan for 3-3.5 depending on if you need to be on time, early (and how early), and whether being late is OK.
    • Plan time in to figure things out. Apple and google maps both do a remarkable job, given what they do. But, using them for seemingly anything in Germany was a lot like using them to find something (anything) around or at a university, or a big music/sport venue. It basically gets you in the right area, but you have to find what you are looking for.
    • Get google Translate. It works remarkably well. Without that, life would have been quite difficult.
    • People will say they speak English, but they don’t. What they mean is they recognize a few words. They can say 25 euro, instead of fünfundzwandig. But if you ask what is on that pizza? Nope.
    • Be patient, don’t get discouraged, and keep trying. It can be mentally exhausting, but it is obviously worth the effort.
    • No one gives water, and unless you know the German word for “tap”, you will always pay. Depending where you are, tap may not even be an option. Fill up your water bottle at the hotel, and carry it everywhere.
    • Service at restaurants is often very slow. Not sure if this is a post-Covid problem, or an artifact of the architecture of their service economy. By that I mean that you seat yourself, but you may have to wait a long time before you even see someone to get their attention. You may not see anyone for a long time when you need something. Almost every server I had across the entire trip repeatedly forgot a request. It often took 10-20 minutes to get a beer, regardless of how busy a place was. If you do not speak German, and your server doesn’t speak (good) English, they will make choices for you. I asked for a Bier Speisekarte at my first restaurant, and the server asked if I wanted Bier, and I said ja, and he brought me a Bier and not the bier menu. They had 4-6 options. Variations of this happened several times.
    3. Be honest with yourself about what you like, what you don’t like, and don’t romanticize an experience.
    • Experiences are everything, but for most people visiting museums aren’t an experience. Eating at restaurants - unless it is a food vacation - are not an experience. Drinking Bier here there and anywhere isn’t an experience, but visiting brewery (/monastery) could be for some. Sight-seeing, if far removed from what you know generally is. Doing something, not just seeing something, is an experience.
    • What were my experiences? Kehlsteinhaus (Eagles Nest) and eating at the restaurant there, Tierpark Zoo (Berlin), walking around Brandenburg Gate, Reichstadt and nearby parks (Berlin) at night.
    • What do I wish I had done? Spent more time in Bavaria. Spend a day walking around Bamberg (didn’t even have time to visit). Visited Neuschwanstein Castle (and if time permitted, other nearby castles, museum of Bavarian kings). Gone hiking in at least one good hiking/cool place.
    • Museums are cool, but €20 to visit a museum ain’t really my thing (unless I will get a half day or more out of it, or it is something I am passionate about, or I am with my wife or daughter, and it meant a lot to one or both of them). I’d rather spend that elsewhere. A palace is cool (and I did visit Charlottenburg Palace near Berlin), but I just took the free option (walk around outside, not inside). I had the option to go on a hike and see a tourist thing, but there was nothing particularly special about the hike, and the tourist thing was just another land-feature. If I had done that, I think I would have felt disappointed in the experience.
    May add to this, but this is the bulk on my mind for now.
     
  16. Beer_Economicus

    Beer_Economicus Pooh-Bah (2,698) Apr 8, 2017 Ohio
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    4. People romanticize going to Europe. I don’t think that simply going to Europe is a life-changing experience. I appreciated this opportunity, but I wouldn’t have wanted to spend a fraction of the money that this trip would have cost. Mostly, because I didn’t understand well enough what I was getting into.
    • Germany (even in Bavaria) feels a lot like the US. It is still a very developed first world country. It isn’t “that” different.
    • Berlin is a large, international City. But, it is still just a European city. It isn’t dissimilar to what you would expect in large cities in the US. Not really. If you are expecting a revelation, don’t. It’s just a city. If you want to visit something different than an international city, go elsewhere.
    • I don’t think Germany is dissimilar enough (for me) compared to the US that I found this to be a trip that I would have paid for. Germany is too similar to what I already know. The sights, the experiences. I am extremely grateful to have experienced it, and I’d love to explore more, but I think if I were to spend money, going someplace MORE dissimilar to where I am from would probably feel like I got more “bang for my buck”.

    All in all, it was a great time. I wish I had spent more time in Bavaria. If I could do it over, I might stay in München the entire time (fly in/out Instead of München first, Berlin second). But, the Tierpark Zoo was so amazing to me that I can’t imagine missing out on that.

    I am glad I got a rental to go visit stuff like Kehlsteinhaus. If it had cost me, I would have just taken the train. I am not sure if I would have wanted to have done a tour situation. I didn’t like that option from what I read, which is ultimately why I did the rental. I liked that freedom. I wasn’t on a set schedule.
     
  17. PapaGoose03

    PapaGoose03 Grand High Pooh-Bah (6,057) May 30, 2005 Michigan
    BA4LYFE Society Pooh-Bah

    @Beer_Economicus Very nice write-up. Thank you.

    You sound like you enjoyed yourself doing some things, but yet disappointed with the overall trip. I wonder if you tried to do too many things but couldn't do everything that you wanted and that's the reason for the disappointment.

    But the one thing that stands out to me is that you were alone for the entire trip. Maybe that's the way you prefer it and you and I are different in that sense, but having someone else along would make a huge difference in my enjoyment (and it has for me when my wife and I traveled three times to Europe). Let's call it an extra comfort level being in a strange place but having someone you know with you.

    But you had a great, enjoyable experience and you learned from your trip, and that's what matters. Again, thanks for the write-up.
     
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  18. rodndtube

    rodndtube Zealot (643) Feb 24, 2007 Maryland
    BA4LYFE Society

    The experience of travel and especially traveling outside the USA. For one thing, the pace really slows down and I came to learn rather quickly that was a good thing. Sounds like you also discovered the effects of jet lag, which is both a time zone and the amount of traveling during a day, from door-to-door. Different people experience time travel differently and the older you become the more challenging the adjustment becomes. Anyway, in Lacanau Plage, I was schooled to "relax" during a lunchtime snack. And in Western Ireland, the late afternoon of the first day from the USA, I was nicely schooled by the bartender that a proper pour of a Guinness takes time! He nicely showed me how to order my 2nd from my table twenty yards away.

    Language is a challenge. Even in the USA. If you live in Boston try going to Mississippi or Alabama or thereabouts and trying to understand what is being said or what to order at a "restaurant." During my first couple of visits to Bavaria, despite plenty of cheat sheets for food names, etc., it simply doesn't prepare one for the colloquialisms. This is no different in Latin America and Spanish, where the common names for items such a tires, breaks, papaya, buses, passion fruit, banana varieties, colors can be so different.

    Garmin/Google are really not that much different in Germany than the USA. I learned a long time ago during road trips that things just didn't add up. Why? The "computer" assumes you a riding in a robotic, nuclear-powered, closed-system vehicle where there is no road construction or lousy roads, or traffic. For road trips my rule of thumb is to add 20 percent to the Google estimate adjusted accordingly to the type of roads (e.g., 40 mph curvy high elevation scenic road).

    One thing I love about starting a trip flying into Munich is how easy and ordered it is--very welcomed as a jet lagged person. We usually spend the first several days in Munich or Regensburg to adapt... and we don't feel like we are wasting time because there is still so many enjoyable things to do. My knowledge of the transit system has come a long way since my first trip in 2005.

    Well, Beer_Economicus, it seems like you are much better prepared for your next trip to Bavaria!
     
  19. einhorn

    einhorn Savant (1,175) Nov 3, 2005 California

    Just my $0.02 on your report. You (correctly) said to visit tourist stuff. As a first time visitor, I agree 100% with that. You also say that it's very similar to the US. I also agree with that.

    BUT, I have found that as you get further away from the touristy stuff do you find the more "German" things and see more of the culture. And, as you learn the language, you understand more about Germany (or any country).

    You chose to drive instead of taking train - that's fine, but when you immerse yourself more and it starts to get uncomfortable, that's when you are getting closer to experiencing more at a different kind of level. At least that's what I have found in my days of travelling.
     
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  20. Gutes_Bier

    Gutes_Bier Maven (1,363) Jul 31, 2011 Germany

    I appreciate the honest write-up, it was well done and I'm sure took some time and organization. Here are a few of my thoughts...

    People do tend to over-romanticize things, myself included sometimes. People ask what driving on the Autobahn was like and I'm quick to say it was pretty much just a highway. A highway where you can get passed like you're standing still when you're going 80 mph/130 kmph but that's a different story. Still though, If you're driving through Koln you're probably going to sit in traffic.

    European hotels are not great. Not near what you get for the price from American hotels, at least in my opinion/experience. For me, there was always some issue with the shower. Sorry you didn't get a comfortable space. Service at restaurants in Europe is slower than the US, and Germany takes it one step further it seems. It's an adjustment. I will say it's also an adjustment the other way. After living in Germany for 4 years I was really taken aback when I was trying to have a meal with some extended family and it felt like we couldn't have a conversation without the server asking how we were doing every 5 minutes and hustling us out when we were done with our food. Just a different approach.

    I think it's hard visiting somewhere just for a few days (or even a few weeks, I felt like my 4 years wasn't enough). Sometimes repeated visits helps you find the more charming, less touristy parts of the country you are visiting. It's very adventurous of you to go somewhere without knowing the language and dealing with the bumps and bruises that go with it. Hopefully you will go back one day and have a better experience.

    A lot and I mean a lot of places in Deutschland, if you say Bier without specifying, they will just bring you "the normal beer". In Heidelberg, if you asked for a beer they'd bring you the Pils, if you wanted the Export or the Wheat beer you'd have to specify. And that, by the way, would cover most beer menus in HD - one Pils and one Export on tap, Wheat Beer in a bottle.

    I'm way off-topic, but one favorite memory was me going to a very small neighborhood festival in Heidelberg. Two young volunteers were manning the beer station, which proudly advertised, "Bier, 2,70/Weissbier 3,20". Guy in front of me in line asked, "what kind of Bier?". The two volunteers looked at each other and giggled at the question. "Ganz normales Bier!" So he ordered a Ganz Normales Bier.
     
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