5/16 hose on a 3/16 Beer Ball Lock

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by GetMeAnIPA, Mar 11, 2021.

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  1. GetMeAnIPA

    GetMeAnIPA Pooh-Bah (2,559) Mar 28, 2009 California
    Pooh-Bah

    I am setting up a CO2 transfer from my fermenter to my keg. Due to my equipment I have a 5/16 hose that I was going to connect to beer post/disconnect.

    On one of my CO2 tanks it has a 5/16 tube that is connected to the gas disconnect and I’ve never had an issue with it leaking.

    Ultimately I am going to put a 5/16 flare on a threaded ball lock MLF ball lock but would it work to run the beer through the 5/16 tube and through the standard 3/16 ball lock disconnect?
     
  2. GetMeAnIPA

    GetMeAnIPA Pooh-Bah (2,559) Mar 28, 2009 California
    Pooh-Bah

    My main question isn’t if it will leak but will it agitate the beer going into the disconnect and then keg. I will flush the keg of oxygen by filling it up with starsan.
     
  3. PortLargo

    PortLargo Pooh-Bah (1,831) Oct 19, 2012 Florida
    Pooh-Bah

    I see some problems with your idea. Is your gas 5/16" line food grade? Most CO2 lines are really not for transferring beer. If not I wouldn't attempt. Not exactly sure how you're making connections, but attaching 5/16" to liquid-side MFLs isn't typically done. You expect the liquid fittings to be 1/4" (barb or swivel nut) so this puts you behind the eight ball. I suppose you could clamp it enough it wouldn't leak at these low pressures but it's a round-about way of doing it.

    My experience is nothing works better than connecting 3/16" beer line (I use BevLex) to a 1/4" barb. A little heat . . . a little force . . . and you have a leakproof connection that will have to be cut off when replacing. I use this for all my beer lines: fermenter to keg, keg to keg, keg to faucet.

    Just saw your second post: I don't see agitation as a problem, plus, if the lines are properly purged the beer doesn't care if it's stirred up. Aside: I find it works okay to sanitize the keg with starsan (partial fill), than top off with water till it's full before dumping . . . saves a little. Also when dumping the keg it's recommended after the first cup or two that you do several burbs . . . trying to dilute that pesky air that was hiding in the posts.
     
  4. GetMeAnIPA

    GetMeAnIPA Pooh-Bah (2,559) Mar 28, 2009 California
    Pooh-Bah

    my problem is I have a 1/2 inch ball valve on my fermenter. I found a barbed connector that is 1/2 on one side and 5/16 on the other. 5/16 is just a gas line so probably not food grade. I usually just put the 1/2 tube on my ball valve when transferring and I don’t believe that’s food grade.
     
  5. GetMeAnIPA

    GetMeAnIPA Pooh-Bah (2,559) Mar 28, 2009 California
    Pooh-Bah

    I guess I should get some food grade hoses.....
     
  6. PortLargo

    PortLargo Pooh-Bah (1,831) Oct 19, 2012 Florida
    Pooh-Bah

    Food grade silicone tubing isn't expensive and just about everyone carries it. I recently "re-hosed" my entire brewhaus . . . and kept extra for spares. Pretty sure if you search around you can find a 1/2" to 1/4" stainless reducing barb which would be perfect.
     
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  7. GetMeAnIPA

    GetMeAnIPA Pooh-Bah (2,559) Mar 28, 2009 California
    Pooh-Bah

    so I looked around for that exact size and couldn’t find it so ended up with the 1/2” to 5/16” barb. Anyways after your reply I looked again and find one. That will save me a lot of
    Headache getting a flare and MLF disconnect. Now I just need to get some food grade 1/2” tubing. I was making it harder than it needed to be.

    Cheers.
     
    PortLargo likes this.
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