Averagely Perfect NorthEast IPA American IPA All Grain (with Partial Mash option) Batch Size: 5 Gallons into fermenter (5.15 gallons including trub prior to xfer to fermenter) OG: 1.062 FG: 1.012 ABV: 6.5% IBUs: 63 (Extended Tinseth per BrewCipher) Mash Efficiency: 70% Grain Bill: North American 2-Row Brewer's Malt - 9.76 lbs (77%) Wheat Malt - 1.12 lbs (10%) Flaked Oats - 1.12 lbs (10%) Honey Malt - 0.34 lbs (3%) Hop Schedule (Pellet Hops): 10 Minutes --Citra, 12.7% AA, 1.0 ounces --Galaxy, 15% AA, 1.0 ounces Flameout/Whirlpool/Hopstand (modeled at 170F for 15 minutes) --Citra, 12.7% AA, 1.25 ounces --Galaxy, 15% AA, 1.5 ounces --Mosaic, 12% AA, 1.25 ounces Fermentation Dry Hop (@ 70% complete fermentation, SG @ ~1.027) --Citra, 1.0 ounces --Galaxy, 1.5 ounces --Mosaic, 1.0 ounces Traditional Dry Hop --Citra, 1.25 ounces --Galaxy, 1.5 ounces --Mosaic, 1.0 ounces Yeast: Wyeast 1318 (London Ale III) Water Profile (overall): Ca: 106 ppm Cl: 134 ppm SO4: 74 ppm Process: - Recommended Mash: Single Infusion @ 152F, 60 Minutes - 60 Minute Boil - Ferment at 68F - This recipe assumes pellet hops, with a 10% bonus utilization due to pellet form, and a wort absorption of 0.025 gallons of wort per ounce of hops. The Standard Tinseth formula assumes leaf hops (without the 10% bonus utilization.) If you will use pellets, but don't believe in the pellet bonus (or believe in a different bonus), adjust. If you will use leaf hops, adjust (for both utilization and for greater wort absorption). YMMV. - I used my own boil off rate (in conjunction with hop wort absorption) to determine my starting wort volume, which impacts hop utilization. YMMV. Adjust as necessary. Use your software. - Anything you change that relates to absorption will change the total fermentables you need to get out of your mash. So you may need to adjust the grain bill up/down. - If your hops have different Alpha Acid percentages, adjust as necessary. - This recipe assumes 70% Mash Efficiency, a little higher than BYO recipes (for example) assume, but probably closer to the average efficiency on this forum based on what I've seen over the years. YMMV. Adjust as necessary. Other Notes: Partial Mash Option Mini-Mash the Wheat Malt, Flaked Oats, and Honey Malt together. Replace the North American 2-Row Brewer's Malt with 5.74 lbs Extra Light DME. Add the DME during the boil.
I think this would go well with the start of football season. Will be brewing it soon. Thanks @VikeMan and all who contributed
Is there no specified dry hop duration or temp? I know... I lobbied to end the polls so I could start brewing.,, QUOTE="VikeMan, post: 4911164, member: 348498"] Fermentation Dry Hop (@ 70% complete fermentation, SG @ ~1.027) --Citra, 1.0 ounces --Galaxy, 1.5 ounces --Mosaic, 1.0 ounces Traditional Dry Hop --Citra, 1.25 ounces --Galaxy, 1.5 ounces --Mosaic, 1.0 ounces
No specified dry hop temperature or time, just like with the other averagely perfect projects. I think of it as one of those brewer's practice things. But there will be a "How my Averagely Perfect NEIPA Turned Out" thread soon. Maybe people will share their dry hop parameters and results there.
I'm brewing this beer on Monday...can't wait! I'm going to do the traditional dry hop for 5 days at around 74° and will report back in the "Turned Out" thread.
Quick question about the water profile - the ppm listed here are for the final volume of wort, right? I do BIAB, so I never know if I should aim for these mineral concentrations in my mash (which includes all my boiloff water) or at the end of the boil.
I would say in your mash. Every Water Chem tool I've seen builds to the mash and/or kettle pre-boil volume, and I'd wager that's what 99%+ are talking about when they recommend a certain water profile.
I know this a bit late, but I brewed this last Sunday. My experience with 1318, is that it ferments quickly, activity has already died down quite a bit. My question: When should I add the biotransformation hop addition? I can't find the poll thread where people discussed when to determine fermentation is 70% complete. Thanks
I I brewed this on the previous Sunday, pitched the yeast (starter) on Monday, and took a sample on Wednesday to find that it was down to 1.016. So I dropped the first dry hop addition in on Day 3, albeit a little too late. This beer finished like a champ. The fermentation dry hop goal was 1.027, given an OG of 1.062 and an anticipated FG of 1.012. Full expected attenuation is therefore 1.062 - 1.012 = 0.050. So, 70% x 0.050 points = a 0.035 drop from the OG. Thus, 1.062 - 0.035 = 1.027. Gravity readings are your friend!
Yes, I was think 2-3 days as well with this yeast. I was trying to avoid takin a sample that early on, thanks for confirming my initial thoughts. I actually brewed this on Monday, so I'll throw them in tonight. On a side note, my blow off container smells like orange sherbert, can't wait to get this one in the keg!
Maybe a newb question, but is this fermentation dry-hopped AND traditional dry hopped? Or is it either or?
Sorry if I'm chiming in too late. I did my first dry hop at 70% estimated attenuation (this is inherently imperfect) and my second dry hop in the keg, after I deemed fermentation was done.
Serious question here. Why are we sticking to the 60 min boil if hops aren't added until the last ten minutes? If we're not using pilsner malt and we don't have bittering hops going in at the beginning of the boil, is there really a reason not to do something shorter? 30 minutes, 15 minutes, etc?
You can absolutely do a shorter boil. Just be sure to adjust your volumes and anticipated FG accordingly.
I meant "watch your FG" after adjusting volumes, but I'm realizing now that I worded it a bit strange.
Super newb questions here: The "mini-mash" is steeping the grains, right? How long should I steep the grains, and at what suggested temperature. How important is water profile to this beer? Would using distilled water make a big difference?
the mini mash would actually consist of taking all the specialty grains and oats and mashing them at like 150-153 for around 30 minutes or so... make sure you monitor your temp and keep it in that range. Distilled water is a good idea, that's what I used.
Thanks man, somehow I missed that link. Really appreciate all the effort you put into this. It was a great read!
