Beers in Italy

Have you looked at the Europe forum? There are several recent threaads about Italy that are also asking for the same tips. https://www.beeradvocate.com/community/forums/europe.20/

 

I did Rome / Amalfi a few years back and didn’t have much luck.

I did learn that “Nastro Azzuro” means Blue Ribbon, and it’s owned by Peroni....so I affectionately referred to it as Italian PBR. That was pretty much my go to, from the limited options I found.

 

The good beers in Italy are in Venice

 

I went to this place in Rome a few years back. Recommended. Great variety in the draft selection, tasty food.

https://www.beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/17916/

 

Italy is still a wine country, but it's quickly becoming a beer country as well. I can only speak for Rome but there are plenty of good places to find beer there. Check the places listings but here are a few of my own must-visits:

(#1) Johnny's Off License - there are several locations but there's one right off the Campo de Fiori where you can pick up bottles. If you see something you're interested in, buy it! The stock changes daily, that's how busy they are, but keep in mind that it is a small shop as well.

(#2) Ma Che Siete Venuti A Fa is a great tiny little multi-tap which just happens to be across the street from (#3) Bir & Fud in one of my favorite neighborhoods. I usually go early, have a few small beers at Ma Che Siete Venuti A Fa and then go across the street to eat at Bir & Fud. There's another place night next door, Birreria Trilussa, but don't bother it's more of a college hangout and the selection isn't nearly as good.

Not far to the east is Beerland Trilussa. I mention it because it's close, and because it's in Trestevere, my favorite neighborhood. It's basically a bottle shop. They have a great selection but their prices are high. If you're interested in Westvleteren they may have it, but it will cost you.

To the north across the river is (#5) Open Baladin. Their beers are available in the U.S. so there's really nothing to special about it, but it is a nice looking place, and the food is good. It's very close to the shopping area there, and near Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina so if I haven't eaten at Roscioli I usually stop in at Baladin just to rest a bit and have a beer and a snack.

Further north by the beautiful Piazza Navona is one of my favorite little places, the (#4) Baguetteria del Fico. It's a tiny little sandwich shop that supports local breweries. The guys are very friendly, and although they don't speak very much English you can usually figure things out and get a good recommendation.

Taking a step backwards, in the southern end of Trastevere you'll find (#6) Brasserie 4:20 that has dozens of Italian craft beers on tap. It's a pleasant walk to the north, and not too far, but the problem is that they don't open until later in the day, so if you were going to add it onto a pub crawl you'd end up there at night. You should note the times that everyplace opens so you know what you're doing and don't waste valuable time - although in Rome, at least for me, walking around is always worth it. Just be cautious if you're in the north above the Termini at night, where you'll find Luppolo 12 and Il Serpente Pub.

Here are some places that I would not bother with unless I was right there and had time on my hands:

Brewdog is on the hillside right beside the colosseum. This is where thieves used to dump the luggage that they'd stolen at the Termini after rifling through it for any valuables! They don't do that anymore but you might find regular garbage stacked in the streets. It's an OK stop but there are better options and it's hot in the summer and cool in the winter.

My Ale and Donkey Punch/Nel Buco del Mulo are just tiny hole in the wall sandwich shops that have beer. Donkey Punch has more of a bar feel and a larger menu if I recall, but the food is better at My Ale. Both of these places are good for grabbing a bottle or can of beer while you're walking around, especially in the heat, but I wouldn't make them a destination. I'd also group Birra e Sale in with those, although they do have some wonder food items so I'll stop if I'm passing. They only have Italian craft beers but the selection is not as good as the others.

Roma Beer Co. in the Campo de Fiori has an average selection and higher prices than you'll pay elsewhere.

Pizzarium Bonci has been really hyped because of the owners appearance on one of the Anthony Bourdain shows. The pizza is good, but I won't drag my ass to the north side of the Vatican to eat it again, and they only serve bottles of the common del Borgo beers (or were they Baladin?).

One final note, if for some reason you're planning to visit the Vatican, pay the money for a guided tour or you'll suffer an eternity in line. With the tour you can be in and out in 2 to 3 hours having seen everything, and having been entertained and enlightened by your guide. Book in advance!

 

Delirium Cafe in Rome, Trastevere neighborhood. My air bnb was a few doors away from this and this was always my last stop of the night before going to bed. They had great selections, and the bartenders were pretty awesome in giving other recommendations for the area, and for my other stop in Florence. They gave me a list of restaurants, bars, and bottle shops in both cities. Lost the list however, else I would re-write it here.
Not sure about Milan, or Amalfi, but you will certainly find good stuff in Rome.

 

You got a nice response about Rome and so I won't add to that other than to say you must stop at Trapizzino on your way to Macche and get a Cacio e Pepe suppli.

It's been a long time since I was frequently in Milan, but there are a few places to recommend. One of the original craft spots in all of Italy is Birrificio Lambrate -- I think they have 2-3 spots now in Milan, the first taproom in Lambrate is amazing but a bit out of the way. Along the Navigli (canal area) you can find a few "BQ" places -- decent beer but you can get them to go and wander along the canals. Probably the best place, for me, is Lambiczoon, given the name you can expect a certain specialization in terms of selection, but they have a range of other beers too. A last oldie-but-goodie is La Belle Alliance -- it's a different type of ambience and certainly isn't just a craft beer spot. They'll show sports and have an excellent whisky selection as well. Get a local Milanese meal nearby at Conchetta, order risotto alla milanese and the ossobuco of course.

With Amalfi, I really can't help you. Just enjoy the views. Positano is cute, the actual town of Amalfi is a bit more "authentic." If you enjoy walking, go to Amalfi, keep walking uphill until the town peters out. On the right side of that last street (great directions, I know), you'll see the beginning of a trail. There will be a good deal of people on it. Keep going. Keep going. About an hour alter or so you will be at a waterfall with few people around you. It's pretty amazing.

Enjoy!