berliner (the cliff notes version)

It depends what you are looking for. I don't mind kettle souring for more complex beers, but for something as simple as a Berliner, I want to add Brett and give it and the Lacto time to add some complexity. I also prefer no-boil, which preserves some doughy-wheatiness.

That said, I'd suggest a Lactobacillus brevis. They give consistent results, and sour as much as I'm looking for. If you pitch a decent starter it may only take a couple days to get the pH down enough. Do your best to keep oxygen out during souring. It can also be helpful to drop the pH to below 4.5 before souring (inhibits unwanted microbes, reduces protein degradation by the Lacto). I like US-05 for Berliners, because of the high attenuation. Other people swear by German ale. 3711 works well in gose, but might be too characterful for the style.

 

@Liberatiscioli I just put in a 1/2 lb uncrushed pilsner malt to innoculate the wort. Just make sure to add it after the wort has cooled below 110 ºF. Let it sit for 5-7 days somewhere between 80-90 degrees and it'll be bubbling away. Refrain from taking off the airlock as much as you can during that time because it introduces oxygen. 10 min boil for me, but you can follow Oldsock's advice and not boil at all. I used a starter of 3711 and a half packet of US-05 to ferment. Yeast will struggle a bit more in a lower pH environment, so I hear it's better to slightly overpitch.

Decent carbonation one week after bottling, so you've got that to look forward to! I didn't add brett or anything to mine though, but likely will on my next batch with fruit. From grain to glass, you're looking at 4-5 weeks, so not bad for a sour!

 

I too inoculate my wort with uncrushed grains, and hold at 115F. (At that temp at least) it doesn't take anywhere near a week to sour. More like a couple days, and the grains are removed at that point (just before the boil).

 

I didn't have enough sourness from a whitelabs lacto strain last, so will be looking at a different steak. For my next bw

 

What @VikeMan said. I soured with the uncrushed pilsner from a Sunday til the following Thursday, so it sat in the carboy for 5 days. I decided it was sour enough and time to start the boil. Just make sure you have something (like a funnel with a strainer) to get the uncrushed malt out before the boil. I was very surprised with the lemony sourness that the lacto imparted. Just as a warning though, it won't look pretty by day 5, but don't be afraid to give it a taste.

 

I soured this way for 5 days, pitching at 115 and keeping my carboy wrapped in a sleeping bag in my garage. Temp gradually fell to mid-70s. I was very happy with the results.

 

You can see all the details in the book. But I just chill to the high 60s and pitch everything (Lacto starter, US-05, and Brett). I don't mind waiting a bit longer for better results and less effort.

I think taste is the most important factor, but especially for kettle souring measuring pH and/or titratable acidity can be valuable tools.

 

Agreed. I was concerned that my temp would fall too low during the souring phase.. I kept mine in a kegerator with a small aquarium heater in there, which kept it around 80-85. I was relieved to find that you can sour your wort at room temp, which makes things much easier.

 

Ever used or heard of using Conan in a Berliner?

 

I haven't, but the fruity flavor seems like it could be a good match. Not sure how acid tolerant it is though.

 

i see that everyone mentions souring in a carboy with airlock. what about souring in a regular bucket fermenter, or will that compromise the fermenter for clean beers in the future?

also, can i do the same souring process in the kettle itself and wrap it in an electric blanket to keep the heat up? or do i need something with an airlock so its more secure?

 

You can do it in a bucket, but you might consider dedicating a bucket to sours and another for non-sours. It's a precaution. Because at least some (maybe all?) strains of lactic acid bacteria can metabolize aerobically, which you do not want if you are souring, the airlock is a precaution against oxygen intrusion. With a bucket, you could have a little more oxygen present because of the headspace and perhaps because of the perimeter of the seal and oxygen permeability of plastic. However, I have soured in buckets, so none of these things are an automatic disqualification. You can sour in the kettle, but maybe there are some precautions you can employ to minimize oxygen intrusion thru the unsealed lid?

 

3: (time for lacto) This will take about 2 to 3 days in a hot garage. It would take a week at about ambient 60-68F Just use a cup of crushed wheat malt to innoculate your batch. Pitch your desired yeast AFTER this at the appropriate temp for the yeast. I used Kolsch yeast with great success. Otherwise, use any clean yeast.


6: (age) Mine tend to taste kind of cidery. I hate cider but I really like these beers. If you can let them sit around for a year, they lose a lot of tang and are really plesant to drink.

It was a lot of words:
http://www.beeradvocate.com/community/threads/berliner-time-bring-me-your-best.154633/

 

The issue is less to do with what the Lactobacillus will do with oxygen (most are aerotolerant anaerobes) and more a concern for what other microbes might do with the oxygen. If you are inoculating with grain, oxygen will allow aerobic (non-Lactobacillus) microbes to thrive producing the "hot garbage" flavors that sour mashes are known for. In longer aged sours, oxygen allows the production of acetic acid (vinegar) and the related ester (ethyl acetate) - a little can be nice, a lot is worse than hot garbage.

 

I think for many brewers it is a safety thing, souring in the MLT or kettle means no need for a separate set of sour gear. Especially appealing to commercial brewers.

 

What is the best way to do this? I've seen people discuss covering the top of the mash with plastic wrap and some soda water, but what would be a similar method when doing a sour wort?

Also quite appealing to brewers living in small apartments that are looking to minimize unnecessary equipment.