Best 6-7 Gallon Fermentor?

If you are doing 2-4 week primary fermentations, I think you are fine with standard brewbuckets and ale pails. If you are planning on long-term storage in secondary fermenters, maybe invest in a kegging setup and store in corny kegs. If you are not ready to do that, glass containers or better bottles are good, as long as the seal is good. Better bottles generally don't require emergency room visits when they slip out of your hands -- something to think about. @JackHorzempa has recently posted on the effectiveness of carboy seals. Maybe he'll help you out there.

 

For most beers, a bucket is fine. A lid that seals is not really necessary either. For the initial fermentation, there is enough CO2 being produced that oxidation is not a problem after that you can seal up the lid, but I figure there is a pretty solid layer of CO2 that doesn't get disturbed since I don't play with my beer until it is ready for kegging/bottling (2-4 weeks).

 

“What are the benefits of upgrading from a simple plastic bucket?” For the case of primary fermentation, a plastic bucket is just fine.

“Is there truly a taste and/or shelf-life difference?” For the case of primary fermentation there is no difference.

Cheers!

 

Buckets are fine for primary : 4ish weeks or less.

Better Bottles are fine for everything: Primary to ∞

Corny kegs work really well for secondary...but you'd have to have a kegging set-up.

I use Better Bottles and Corny kegs for all of my beer related fermentation needs.

 

Yes, they aren't new. If you've got a place to mount them, and are only going to use them as a primary, the go for it. Otherwise they don't offer anything, because removing trub at the 5-6 gallon level isn't necessary, and can be done in a variety of ways before the wort reaches the fermentor.

People purchase stainless conicals for various reasons:

1. Can ferment more beer
2. Easy to clean/sanitize
3. Durable
4. Transfer under Co2
5. Easier to harvest yeast

 

I use both Corny kegs, and Better Bottles (PET carboys) for long-term aging. I have glass carboys too, but prefer PET.

 

Same here. I step down from my 6 gallon bucket (for headspace during fermentation) to 5 gallon glass or plastic carboys for long-term aging. Stepping down on size ensures that you can fill the fermented beer as close to the mouth of the carboy as possible, reducing O2 exposure long term.

 

I'm reminded of a somewhat famous quote, something about a fool and his money

 

I concur with what John posted on this topic.

Cheers!

 

I've got 2 of these, and they work great: http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/...bbler/big-mouth-bubbler-evo-2-6-5-gallon.html

Perfect for big brews with big ferments, since the opening allows for a thick blow off tube to be added.

 

i guess i'll give the clear pro for those fast ferment...trub dump on brew day, then yeast capture after fermentation. Seems like reason enough to invest in my book. If I was in the market, I'd definitely be giving those a look.

I use buckets, a spiegelau fermenter and ss brew bucket. No matter which i'm using I like having a valve on the bottom so I don't need to bother with a siphon and can easily transfer via closed racking system. Not like I haven't made great beer without it, but at the same time, prefer closed system vs open.

 

yeah, only move up if it's a capacity thing...or an experience with more professional equipment thing.. stainless conicals are no easier to clean than buckets(more difficult actually). you have to take apart valves/fastenings and thoroughly clean after each batch.. they do make pulling wort and dumping trub easier though.. "Spikes 12.5" is nice... blowoff port, sturdy legs, easy to clean... SS also makes a nice one..

but don't do it if you think that it's going to be a big help to the quality of your beer... its not. You can brew world class beer in a bucket. It's all about pitching enough yeast, using proper ferm temps, good recipes, good sanitation... I can churn out the same quality with a bucket as I can in a 217 gallon fermentor - you can too.

 

Yes, you can use the fast ferment thing to do what you want to do. I'd replace the ball shaped yeast harvester with a stainless steel ball valve. Not sure if the threads are the same. Ask the manufacturer if it is. The yeast harvester will infuse a bunch of air through your beer when you open the valve.

Another con for the FF is it can be scratched easily and isn't cheap to replace every couple of years due to interior scratches.

By the time you buy the FF and the stand it's about $160. For that price, I'd rather pay a little extra and get the $225 steel fermentor.

 

You have already received the answer to that. As a reminder, it is YES!

If you feel compelled to spend more money for a fermenter, by all means do so.

If you think the quality of your beer will improve due to a switch from a plastic fermenter to an expensive fermenter you are incorrect in that matter.

Cheers!

 

One of the benefits of using a conical vs a bucket or BB is the ability to remove the yeast cake prior to dry hopping. This is how most pros do it. They could easily leave the cake there to absorb some of the dry hops, but most of them have found removing the cake prior to dry hopping to be a better technique. Therefore, you are incorrect in that matter.