BIAB low OG - I am bummed....

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by pointyskull, Apr 14, 2013.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. pointyskull

    pointyskull Zealot (675) Mar 17, 2010 Illinois
    Trader

    Did a 5 gallon Scotch Ale BIAB today, with an expected OG of 1.075.
    Post-boil OG came in at 1.052. :grimacing:

    My mash temps were a bit on the low side, falling under 150. Wondering if that had any impact.
    Used 8.25 gallons of water with 15.75 lbs of grain
     
  2. SFACRKnight

    SFACRKnight Grand Pooh-Bah (3,348) Jan 20, 2012 Colorado
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    I've done minimashes at 149 before with no effect on gravity. Well, og anyway. If you fell off more than 1 or 2 degrees, like down to 145 it may have had some adverse effects.
     
  3. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    What was your grain bill? And what was the volume of post-boil wort?
     
  4. GeckoPunk

    GeckoPunk Initiate (0) Jul 29, 2012 Connecticut

    Do you measure the amount of water pre-boil and post-boil? How long was your boil? Did you use any additional fermentables (saccharose, dextrose, fructose, glucose, etc...)? Was this a partial boil?
     
    Eriktheipaman likes this.
  5. koopa

    koopa Initiate (0) Apr 20, 2008 New Jersey

    I too think the first thing to check would be your volumes. If you collected more wort than anticipated then it would lower your preboil original gravity. If your volumes are correct, then I would move on to examining the crush of your grain.
     
    cavedave and Beerontwowheels like this.
  6. pointyskull

    pointyskull Zealot (675) Mar 17, 2010 Illinois
    Trader

    I did a 60-minute boil, with no additional fermentables. Post-boil volume was just over 6 gallons, which was higher than I was anticipating.

    Grain bill:
    3/4 lb Munich Malt
    6 oz. Special B Malt
    13 lb 2-row malt
    1 lb Crystal 150L
    10 oz Rauch
    1/4 Chocolate Malt

    I think this may have been a trilogy of miscues, beginning with not starting with a high strike water temp.

    Then I'm thinking my initial water volumes were too high.
    Started the boil with just under 8, and ended with 6. I figured on a 1.5 gal boil off but it seems my amount at the start of the boil was too much.

    Plus it may be the crush. I don't have a mill yet, and I ordered from Austin Homebrew (who have said they would double-crush on request). My last AG order from them landed me spot on my OG, but I guess it's possible this one didn't have a fine enough crush.

    I trust this will still be drinkable, just not where I was expecting ABV wise....
     
  7. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    For a start, multiply 1 minus OG by 6 gallons, then divide by whatever volume you were expecting, then add 1. Let's say you were expecting 5 gallons...

    (((1 - 1.052) * 6 gallons) / 5 gallons) + 1 = 1.062

    So your volume would explain 10 points of your discrepancy (62 - 52) right there.
     
  8. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    Back of the envelope, with OG of 1.052 in 6 gallons, that only about 55% efficiency for this grain bill (which I compute to 13 lbs, not 12.75). I don't do BIAB, but that sounds really low, even with a poor crush.
     
  9. inchrisin

    inchrisin Pooh-Bah (2,013) Sep 25, 2008 Indiana
    Pooh-Bah

    That's the best 55% of the grain though. It'll be tasty and you'll probably have a damn good drinking beer for the late spring early summer. 55% is really low, even for BIAB. I think you should be getting 65ish%, even without a sparge.

    I'm not sure where you get your grain or what your crush looks like. I'd start there. If you get it from a local, I'd ask them to run it through twice. With BIAB you won't have to worry about stuck sparges.

    This is a pretty aggressive crush, and exactly where you want to be after it gets out of the mill:
    https://www.google.com/search?q=all...28%2Fbest-grind-setting-for-grains%2F;575;383
     
  10. koopa

    koopa Initiate (0) Apr 20, 2008 New Jersey

    Get in the habit of doing the following measurements every time you brew, as they are the cornerstones of calculating both your mash extraction efficiency and your brewhouse efficiency:

    preboil volume
    preboil gravity
    postboil volume
    postboil gravity
    volume into fermenter (batch size)
     
    pointyskull likes this.
  11. tripeldubya

    tripeldubya Initiate (0) Jan 9, 2009 Pennsylvania

    How long did you mash? With biab I mash for 75 minutes and get over 80% efficiency
     
  12. utahbeerdude

    utahbeerdude Maven (1,374) May 2, 2006 Utah

    Grain crush can have a dramatic influence on efficiency. I used to get premilled (LHBS) and typically got 65 to 70% mash efficiency. I now grind my own (Monster Mill), and typically get >85% efficiency. Last batch was 88%. (Not BIAB, BTW.)
     
  13. pointyskull

    pointyskull Zealot (675) Mar 17, 2010 Illinois
    Trader

    60 min. I will bump it up next batch....
     
  14. pointyskull

    pointyskull Zealot (675) Mar 17, 2010 Illinois
    Trader

    I've added this to my brewday checklist....
     
  15. barfdiggs

    barfdiggs Initiate (0) Mar 22, 2011 California

    Extending past 60 min won't really help your efficiency, but will most likely make your beer more fermentable.

    Most likely culprit of your low BIAB efficiency is the grain crush, however like Koopa said above, measure the parameters above to get a better idea of where your source of efficiency loss is occurring.

    One other thing worth mentioning, which may or may not make a difference... Do you have a ball valve on your kettle? If so, it would be a good idea to recirculate after you mash in to ensure the mash is well mixed (drain into pitcher, pour back over, repeat until liquid color and viscosity is consistent. The minute I started recirculating my mash liquid, my efficiency went up about 15-20% (My BIAB is around 80-85% for beers <1.080 OG; Haven't done anything bigger).
     
  16. pointyskull

    pointyskull Zealot (675) Mar 17, 2010 Illinois
    Trader

    Yes, I have a ball valve on my kettle. I may give that a shot.
     
  17. Beerontwowheels

    Beerontwowheels Initiate (0) Nov 22, 2009 Maryland

    How do you all determine you post boil volume? Are you measuring pre-chill, or post chill? Does your volume reading include leaving the hop bags/hop spider (if you use them) still submerged in the wort?

    Getting more precise measurements post boil is something I am trying to improve on. I add the immersion chiller with 15 minutes left in the boil and that adds a good deal to the volume in the kettle. Couple that with the hops in the spider and my volume reading on the sightglass is pretty warped.

    If after chilling I remove the IC and hop spider, I feel I may be disturbing the sediment that hopefully coned up when I was recirculating via pump. I'd get a more accurate reading that way though.

    Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
     
  18. koopa

    koopa Initiate (0) Apr 20, 2008 New Jersey

    I use a plate chiller so I don't have to worry about the IC inflating the volume. I also use a hop spider, but I didn't when I first started brewing so I was better able to figure out my boil off rate. Once I knew my boil off rate, then I could estimate my post boil volume pretty consistently by knowing my preboil volume, boil off rate, and boil time. Oh and when I calculate my post boil volume it is prechill so it is inflated by 4%. For example, my typical batch size is calculated as follows:

    preboil volume
    - boil off volume (which equals boil off rate x length of boil)
    - 4% cooling loss
    - whatever volume of wort I typically leave behind in the kettle/hoses/chiller
    = amount of chilled wort I get into the fermenter (batch size)
     
  19. bnuno

    bnuno Initiate (0) Feb 8, 2011 California

    i've done a few BIAB before i got a mashtun, the higher expected OG always ended up being lower efficiency then my mid-range OGs (with everything else being equal). Mash temp of 150 is fine and wouldn't be the reason IMO.
     
  20. kbuzz

    kbuzz Initiate (0) Jan 22, 2011 North Carolina

    I just use the volume measurement markings on the side of my fermentation buckets :grinning: Deadly accurate yo!
     
    cavedave likes this.
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.