Bombs Away?

Ten-nineteen seems pretty high to me; I'd test a bottle every 4-5 days to make sure they aren't over-carbing. And I'd store them in a plastic bin or some other closed container, so if one pops off, it doesn't make a huge mess. It's been a very long time since I had a bottle bomb, but you would not believe the places you'll find glass.

 

Clear out some fridge space and test these bottles over the next couple of weeks. If they start getting too foamy you might want to get them in the fridge.

 

Good luck Sir , hope you won´t get a messy time

 

This is the best plan.

 

I'll never forget the one time I had bottle bombs (around 18 years ago). I had some sweet flip-top quart sized bottles. I used to brew on about 1 gallon scales, and I'd made a pale ale that kicked ass (or so I thought). I bottled the stuff after maybe a week of fermentation (probably used some shitty pack of yeast that came on a can of extract), and took two of them on an airplane in my carry-on back to my parents house. The beer was great. I had the other two in a cabinet in my kitchen, and a few days after the trip, I came home from work, walked into the kitchen, and felt a crunch. A sticky crunch. Holy shit, there was glass everywhere. The two bottles had been next to each other in a closed cabinet, and there was glass 10 feet away from the cabinet door. There was glass and beer in my silverware drawer, which was directly above where the bottles were stored. It took me two hours to clean everything up that I could get to. I'm really glad that shit didn't blow when I was on the airplane, lol.

 

Am I reading your post right when I conclude that you bottled 12 days after pitching? If you took gravity readings four days apart and they didn't change, you probably aren't in danger of bottle bombs. Probably. But I would suggest that you don't want to bottle that soon in any case. I think a good rule of thumb is that you want to let the beer condition for at least a week following primary fermentation. Two weeks is better. Just let it sit and give the yeast time to clean up after itself. I think the yeast will eventually do this in the bottle even if you bottle too soon, but the process will occur more quickly if you let the beer sit on the yeast cake for week.

 

I agree with all the above who recommend extreme care with this beer.

 

Your beer is finished and unless you used too much priming sugar your beer will be fine. When I was a bucket shaker I would shake for at least 5 minutes. With that amount of time I have never not had a beer not finish because of oxigenation of the wort. I now use a stir paddle in a drill motor and am very happy with this system. Take care.

 

73% is normal range for most yeast strains. post the recipe, should be able to tell you for sure.

 

and og was...

 

Based on this grain bill and mash temp/time - I got that your FG should have been 1.012.

Look out!

Probably due to - as you said - underoxygenating - or even too cold in the fermenter - I've had problems attenuating this strain at 60 deg F.

Also possible the yeast became sluggish after working through the simple sugars - but I doubt it.

Use VikeMan's brewcipher to help determine target FG next time. It should get you close (my approximations are usually 1 point off max).

Get them in the fridge. Soon.

 

You mentioned: “Probably due to - as you said – underoxygenating”

Below is from a Fermentis FAQ on their website:

“Does the wort need Oxygenation / aeration?
As the yeast is grown aerobically, the yeast is less sensitive on first pitch. Aeration is recommended to ensure full mixing of the wort and yeast.”

My read of the above is that US-05 should not be sensitive to underoxygenating.

Danstar is even stronger as regards their recommendations for their dry yeast. They explicitly state that oxygentating is not needed for their yeasts:

“I always aerate my wort when using liquid yeast. Do I need to aerate the wort before pitching dry yeast? No, there is no need to aerate the wort but it does not harm the yeast either. During its aerobic production, dry yeast accumulates sufficient amounts of unsaturated fatty acids and sterols to produce enough biomass in the first stage of fermentation. The only reason to aerate the wort when using wet yeast is to provide the yeast with oxygen so that it can produce sterols and unsaturated fatty acids which are important parts of the cell membrane and therefore essential for biomass production. If the slurry from dry yeast fermentation is re-pitched from one batch of beer to another, the wort has to be aerated as with any liquid yeast.”

Cheers!

 

If it's not oxygen, I'd lean towards low temperature, which could have put the yeast to sleep - making it appear that your fermentation was done. How many packets did you pitch? (I am by no means a dry yeast expert - but it seems as though a few should be pitched for an OG this high)