Bombs Away?

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by sjverla, Oct 16, 2013.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    FWIW, the Mr. Malty calculator states you need 1.5 packets (11.5 grams) for a 1.072 gravity beer. So. 1 packet would less than ideal by Mr. Malty standards but not a drastic underpitch.

    Cheers!
     
  2. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts


    I had such a suspicion myself, so I actually had pulled the bucket out of my swamp cooler for a few days and then took another reading and it hadn't changed. At this point ambient temp is about 10* warmer than the temp in the cooler, so it climbed a little. But the gravity remained unchanged.

    So if it is the temperature, if I keep the bottles at the temperature at which fermentation seems to have stalled or otherwise cease, in theory, wouldn't it stay stopped, provided the temp didn't climb? (Not seeking to justify reckless behavior - just curious if yeast are capable of following through to logical conclusions.)

    Mr. Malty said 1.5. I rehydrated/pitched 1.5.
     
  3. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    “I rehydrated/pitched 1.5” Plenty of yeast there!

    “I also fermented a little cool for US-05 (~60F).” Was there a specific reason you chose to ferment at the very bottom of the recommended range (60-75F)?

    Cheers!
     
  4. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts


    Because it's generally be a little above where I'd want US-05. Last time I used it, I held it around 72F and definitely started getting a little estery. The temperature swings around here have been pretty dramatic (40F over night, 70F during the day) and I was using a swamp cooler to try to at least give it a shot at staying more consistent. It ended up being cooler than I wanted. Such is life without a fermentation freezer.

    Come November I should have a good 5-6 months of quality temperatures though (we keep our place ~64 in the winter). From there, I'm finding it's easier to add heat (heat wrap) than it is to take it away.
     
  5. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Grand Pooh-Bah (3,452) May 21, 2010 Texas
    Society Pooh-Bah


    Use caution and put them in a plastic container with a lid, check regularly, bla bla bla. But also RDWHAHB.

    I have completely forgotten the stir after pouring from boil kettle to bucket, with no issues. Note that I filter with a big strainer, which always winds up with a big foamy bucket full of wort. Now while I am not recommending skipping aeration, it seems that for a fairly normal beer, using this method, aeration is probably adequate enough to prevent off flavors.

    I have never used a stone, btw, and never had an issue. If I choose to do certain more complex, high ABV beer types, I may need to get a stone and O2, but really I have no plans to deviate too far what's proven to be a pretty easy and successful generic formula for beer.

    After all, I go to school to do crap like calculus III and statistics, I brew beer for fun... oh, and for the beer. :sunglasses:
     
  6. mikeyv35

    mikeyv35 Savant (1,052) Oct 15, 2008 New York
    Trader

    Phone is broke brother. Clean out your inbox so we can bullshit and catch up. Hope all is well.
     
  7. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts

    Well, now I've got 48 potential bombs of varying sizes tucked neatly in a large plastic tub feeling a little defeated since I had such high hopes for this brew. I also have a brown mild fermenting with WLP013 which is an enthusiastic yeast, and that has also stalled at 1.019. So I've got my heat wrap on that and I'm bringing it up close to 70F for a few days to see if the yeast get going again. Sigh...I wonder if I could get a chest freezer up 3 flights of narrow stairs...
     
  8. FarmerTed

    FarmerTed Pundit (928) May 31, 2011 Colorado

    Are you using a refractometer or hydrometer to measure your gravities? If you're using a refractometer, you may be forgetting to do the conversion on fermenting wort.

    Also, what temp are you pitching at? Pitching warm (say 70 F) and then putting the fermenter in a cool area is a recipe for stuck fermentations. Trust me, I know.
     
  9. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts


    It's a hydrometer.

    I usually pitch on the warmer side. I knew it wasn't ideal, but I didn't realize it could be that detrimental. A valuable lesson, thank you. These are batches 6 & 7 respectively, and I haven't had any issues and now I'm having the same issue (with the exact same reading).
     
  10. FarmerTed

    FarmerTed Pundit (928) May 31, 2011 Colorado

    Well, when you pitch warm the yeast will really take off, but after fermentation peaks, the cooler temps will cause the yeast to fall asleep. Before I had temp control, I had that happen with several batches I brewed in the winter. Cooler temps in my basement (around 62 F) really killed my attenuation.
     
  11. SFACRKnight

    SFACRKnight Grand Pooh-Bah (3,348) Jan 20, 2012 Colorado
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    I have to ask, are you taking the temp of your sample into consideration when looking at your gravity? Also, this is why I chill out and let my beers sit for a few weeks.
     
  12. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts


    Yep, it's calibrated for 60F, which is where the samples have been at. I usually don't rush. Like I said, most beers I give three weeks. This time my excitement/impatience/inexperience got the best of me. I knew 1.019 seemed high, but it had been stable for 4-5 days, so I went ahead at two weeks. It was in hindsight that I started to come around to the possibly life-threatening :grimacing: error of my ways.

    If they do start to go, I only hope I'm home to hear it and my cats' reactions are suitably entertaining.
     
    mattbk likes this.
  13. SFACRKnight

    SFACRKnight Grand Pooh-Bah (3,348) Jan 20, 2012 Colorado
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    I had fermentation stall on an imperial stout I brewed at 1.027 from 1.080ish. Bottled it up, no problems.
     
  14. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts


    I just opened one to check carb levels. Indications so far are good. It tastes messy, but it's only been in bottles for four days. Carbonation wise though, there's not a whole lot in solution, so this might only be a mitigated disaster as opposed to unmitigated.
     
  15. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Grand Pooh-Bah (3,452) May 21, 2010 Texas
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Being a Zappa fan, I always have to use unmitigated audacity together. I just can't separate the two words. :rolling_eyes:
     
    cavedave likes this.
  16. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts


    As a fan of several bands who were clearly influenced by Zappa (I dig the idea of Zappa more than what I've heard, which is admittedly very little), I appreciate the phrase. Sounds like a good name for a ridiculous imperial stout. OR an imperial strong ale from Stone - along the lines of Double Double Bastard.
     
  17. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Grand Pooh-Bah (3,452) May 21, 2010 Texas
    Society Pooh-Bah


    That's a good idea... Inmitigated Audacity Stout. Or Unmitigated Audacity IPA. I think I'll make one of each, or better yet, a series.......... :sunglasses:

    IMO the quintessential Zappa is "the best band you've never heard in your life" starting on track 7, disk one (starts with Mr Green Jeans, goes through florentine pogen, Inca roads, Andy...). couldn't find that on youtube tho, so try this one out, from 1968...

     
  18. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts

    So this has taken a turn for what I can only accept as comical - because the greater implication is that I'm pretty darn close to having 100 bottles of beer that didn't go right...

    Anyway, I just took a reading on the brown mild which has had the heat wrap on it all weekend. Well, I've already done a whole heap of damage and apparently it's pretty damn chilly in my apartment, too. It hasn't budged from 1.019 - an astounding 40% attenuation.

    So in the swamp cooler, this beer got down to 55F and I'm no longer surprised that the yeast kind of threw in the towel. I did a little quick math when I put the wrap on and figured that if my Johnson probe was reading the ambient at 68 and the beer, which had been out of the cooler for a few days at this point, should have theoretically warmed a little. It did not. And after 48 hours with the ferm wrap set to 70 the beer sits at 55F still. Apparently my probe wasn't as insulated as I hoped and the ferm wrap barely turned on. But even still, it wasn't enough to warm the beer up at all. So I'm getting ready to rehydrate/pitch some US-05 to finish it off and have the wrap cranked to 77.

    My plan now is to drink through the potential bombs as fast as I can to free up the tub I was using as a cooler. That will now be my fermenting chamber (it holds two buckets/carboys). The ferm wrap will lay flat on the bottom. The sides will be insulated and the top will be a sort of tent made out of moving blankets. I may or may not get a thermowell (I'm seriously considering it), but if not, hopefully keeping the ambient temp in the chamber ~68F will provide a good environment for a variety of yeasts.
     
  19. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    How did you insulate the probe? For beer, I use a thermowell in a carboy hood, but for wine and mead I have placed the probe vertically against the side of a fermentation bucket and covered it over with 3 layers of bubble wrap, held in place (and further sealed by) packing tape. The temps inside the bucket stayed amazingly close to the wrap controller's setting this way.
     
  20. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts

    Similar amount of bubble wrap. Secured with duct tape to the side of my carboy. I know it wasn't accurate since the sample I pulled was at 55F whereas the controller was in the mid 60s.

    I have tried this on my bucket yet though. I would imagine it probably gets a more accurate reading off the plastic.
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.