Bottle or keep conditioning, or add fining products?

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by Bwhamon, Sep 15, 2014.

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  1. Bwhamon

    Bwhamon Initiate (0) Aug 29, 2014 Kentucky

    I have my first batch ever in the secondary. I expected it to start to clear already. I will post pics later. It was in the primary for 5 days and I transferred to secondary to dry hop. Yesterday marked 2 weeks in secondary. I have Polycar-10, Isinglass, and Super-Kleer KC. There has been no bubbling since about day 3-4 in secondary. I am certain there is a nice protective layer of CO2 which I do not want to disturb.

    The instructions for the fining agents talk about stirring them in. Additionally, I would need to remove my bung to pour anything in. After reading Palmer and Daniel's books, I am really freaked out about doing anything that may oxidize my beer.

    1. I will be bottling so I do not want to remove all the yeast with Isinglass. Has anyone bottle conditioned after using it? Was there enough yeast for carbonation/conditioning?

    2. Should I just keep it where it is for another week (without adding anything) to see what happens? Despite transferring to the secondary at the very end of primary fermentation (4-5 bubbles per minute), there is considerable yeast at the bottom. I don't want to leave it any longer than 1-2 more weeks. When do I need to worry about the soapy off flavors from cell lysis?

    3. How can I using fining products and avoid oxidation? I do not yet have ability to keg so I can't purge the head space with CO2. That will be my next purchase.

    Thanks for the help.
     
  2. jbakajust1

    jbakajust1 Pooh-Bah (2,552) Aug 25, 2009 Oregon
    Pooh-Bah

    Just as a point of reference for future beers, especially to avoid risk of oxidation, don't use a secondary. They are un-needed unless you are bulk aging a beer and want to take it off the yeast cake. You can add dry hops to the primary directly. Also, 5 days in primary is too short, I would let it go at least 2 weeks before racking. I have no idea about finings though, so I will leave that to others who have used them. I would bottle if it is ready and FG is stable, the beer will clear with time in the cold fridge.
     
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  3. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    I would give it some more time, and/or cold crash. I don't think anyone would advise using finings on a first batch. At least I wouldn't. You don't need to worry about autolysis. At least not in just a few weeks. And soapy off flavors come from compounds found in kettle trub (not from autolysis). Hopefully you didn't dump all the contents of the kettle into the fermenter. And even if you did, I wouldn't worry about soap just yet.
     
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  4. Bwhamon

    Bwhamon Initiate (0) Aug 29, 2014 Kentucky

    5 days was when the fermentation started to wind down per Palmer's book. If you wait until primary fermentation is over (no more bubbling) don't you worry about oxidation when removing the bung to add hops or remove samples or FG tesing?

    I filtered with the plastic filter/screen that came with my kit. I could not pour it (6 gal boil) and still hold back the debris. I will probably wirlpool and siphon from the edge next time.
     
  5. jbakajust1

    jbakajust1 Pooh-Bah (2,552) Aug 25, 2009 Oregon
    Pooh-Bah

    Nope. If you are in and out then you are fine. Even when fermentation winds down, the yeast are still active cleaning up compounds in the beer that we don't want like diacetyl or acetaldehyde. Removing from yeast will leave these compounds in the beer. Also, they still release some CO2 as they do this. Putting hops into the primary will create nucleation sites which will release some of the CO2 in solution back into the head space as well. For your next batch leave it alone, and observe that the airlock will still do some slow bubbling even 2 weeks in (if the system is sealed well).
     
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  6. Bwhamon

    Bwhamon Initiate (0) Aug 29, 2014 Kentucky

  7. jbakajust1

    jbakajust1 Pooh-Bah (2,552) Aug 25, 2009 Oregon
    Pooh-Bah

    Looks ready to me. You won't really ever get the beer totally clear from all the stuff on the walls and in suspension without some swirling followed by a long cold crash. Just leave behind that slurry at the bottom when you rack.
     
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  8. Bwhamon

    Bwhamon Initiate (0) Aug 29, 2014 Kentucky

    Do you swirl by just tilting the carboy with the bung in place? Should still be free of oxidation I would think. Can you cold crash with ice? I have yet to buy a freezer.
     
  9. mclaughlindw4

    mclaughlindw4 Initiate (0) Jul 2, 2009 Maine

    I say... it's your first batch, just bottle it. After it carbs you can put it in the fridge and it will clear on it's own in a few weeks. A cold crash in a bottle if you will.
     
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  10. Ilanko

    Ilanko Initiate (0) Aug 3, 2012 New York

    I don't remember when I did secondary, lately I realize that "Time and calender" can do it for me, while I spend my resources on brow new stuff and gain more experience. In other words simplify some parameters, on the same time have more control on others.

    So much fun.
     
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  11. jbakajust1

    jbakajust1 Pooh-Bah (2,552) Aug 25, 2009 Oregon
    Pooh-Bah

    I wouldn't even mess with it to be honest. Learn the process and get it down before you try to do stuff like cold crashing and finings. Cold crashing is easier to do in a bottle or a keg.
     
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  12. Bwhamon

    Bwhamon Initiate (0) Aug 29, 2014 Kentucky

    Thanks everyone for the advice. Going to bottle this week. Hopefully starting my second batch this week too.
     
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