Bottling Help: How much priming sugar do I need?

I usually use 5ozs corn sugar. Set the temp for 65-70. After you add the sugar, mix the beer slowly every 3-5 bottles when filling.

 

Yes. You should use the highest temperature the beer reached at the end of fermentation or after fermentation.

 

Pretty sure 0.8 oz is too low. When beer ferments some of the CO2 produced by the yeast remains in solution, this is called residual CO2 and is temperature dependent. Here's a pretty good discussion on the topic:
http://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/

As discussed in the link, there is a touch of uncertainty when a beer is cold-crashed for an extended period. My suggestion: allow the beer to warm back to 64'ish, give it a day to stabilize, then prime using a more conventional amount of sugar. You need to raise the beer temp anyway for carbing, let this be the first step. To minimize disturbing the trub, I find it helps to position the primary at least a day ahead of time prior to racking/bottling . . . if your room temp is 60'ish you've got it made. Oh yeah, try and weigh your sugar versus using some ****-a-mamie cup measurement.

 

Is there a typo, or did you use 4.57 grams of dextrose? That is probably not nearly enough.

Assuming you meant 4.57 oz of dextrose, it is not too late to move the bottles to a warmer location. Don't overdo it, but 70s is fine.

 

That's a reasonable amount to use, I would move the bottles to a somewhat warmer location and wait.

 

If you want them to carbonate sooner than you should move them to a location closer to 70. My beer room is in the basement so I have this problem in the winter as it will be 61-64 degrees whereas the summer its 67-69. Most of my beers were taking 4-6 weeks to carbonate at 61-64 degrees so in the winter I now move newly bottled bottles of beer upstairs where its 68-70 and they usually carbonate in 2-3 weeks.

 

5 gallons, use 5/8 cup cane sugar. Or always, anywhere, anytime, use 2 tablespoons per gallon. I may be wrong but I don't believe temperature is a big consideration. I've been bottling for 18 years and only very rarely have overcarb problems using these amounts, if the yeast was still overly happy in there or whatever.

 

There's some debate on temps effect on adding natural CO2 to beer. I will usually warm my beer back to room temp after cold crashing and use that temp in the calculation and have had no problems.

For carbonation I've personally found that warmer temps do help speed the process up. Not sure if there is science for that but its been that way in my experience.

 

Well that is a fact, and there is scientific/biological reason for it. The yeast is just happier and works more quickly at warm temperatures than at cold temps. If I want my bottles to carb quickly, I take a 6-pack or whatever and place on top of my refrigerator or computer desk where I know the radiative heat acts as some of the warmest areas of the whole house. The rest of it I'll leave in the basement and it will carb up fine within a week or two typically, whereas the warm conditioned beers will fully carb in like 3-5 days typically.

 

Yeast are more active at warmer temperatures and since an actual secondary fermentation is occurring as part of the bottle conditioning process warmer is 'better'.

Cheers!

 

3-5 days? I might have to try that on a couple bottles of a Double IPA I am bottling this weekend! Patience is not one of my virtues especially on a beer that tasted really good before bottling!