Bottling time

Below is something I posted in a previous thread:

The dry yeast vendors do not recommend that you make starters for their products. The ‘best’ way to utilize dry yeast is to rehydrate them (to ensure yeast cell viability). If additional yeast cells are needed (e.g., for making a lager or high gravity ale) you should just pitch an additional packet.

Below is a nice write-up from another beer forum on this topic;

“A starter typically doesn't have enough nutrients in it to properly support complete cell growth from dried yeast. The cell walls of dried yeast are fragile due to the drying process. Pitching dried yeast that hasn't been rehydrated in straight water results a 50% loss of viability.

Pitching dried yeast into a starter depletes the yeast of their energy reserves just coming out of the dried state while trying to cope with the starter environment.

Creating a starter with dry yeast is bad for the yeast, and often creates an under-pitching situation.

Dry yeast is so cheap, just pitch two packs directly into the wort, or be sure to rehydrate in water.

No starter is necessary.

I have always had faster starts with rehydrated yeast, than with dried yeast that was pitched directly OR put into a starter.”

Read more: http://www.brewingkb.com/homebrewing/Dry-Yeast-Starter-To-do-or-not-to-do-2534.html#ixzz2PVcrbnjg

Cheers!

 

When you make a starter out of dry yeast, (some) manufacturers say that you may undo some of what they did in preparing them for best performance. The bigger reason IMO to not make starters with dry yeast is that there are more cells per package, so you very often don't need to increase your cell count if starting with a dry yeast package.

Having said that, if I had one dry yeast package and needed more cells than it contains, I would not hesitate to rehydrate and then make a starter.

 

Ill have a to go back and look at my tasting notes but when I did a starter from dry yeast everything seemed to be fine. Although I had it on a stir plate and let it go for 24 hrs, it just seems to me its not going to change much if you pitch your whole starter. The logic in the previous quotes is a bit lost on me... These yeast are going to be put in a new environment either way, once they re-hydrate it should be business as usual...

 

This is my main issue with the 'our yeast are too fragile for a starter' idea. They are going to do a lot more propagating in the beer wort than they would have (or did) in the starter anyway.

 

When adding yeast at bottling for bottle conditioning, you only need to add something like 1/4 pack of dry yeast to the beer.

 

Hey All, seemed like the best thread to pose these questions:

I'm making a porter with molasses. I brewed it on July 7th, transferred to a secondary on July 28th, and there it has sat until now (Sept 8). I want to go ahead and bottle this sometime over this coming weekend.

1. Has so much time gone by since I've brewed it, that it would need yeast added to the bottling bucket?

2. If the answer to the above is "yes", how much yeast? I originally used Wyeast 1275 (Thames Valley Ale), one package. I don't have any more. Is it ok to use a dry yeast packet? How much of the packet?

3. Do you just let it "settle in" or do you gently stir what is added?

Thanks!

 

This is one reason I use a yeast nutrient when I'm making starters. I've gotten in the habit, so I use it in all starters, for liquid, smack-packs and for dry, and I've never had issues with the beers made from any of them.

 

Probably not.