Brewday

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by TheBeerery, Dec 22, 2017.

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  1. Brewday

    Brewday Zealot (721) Dec 25, 2015 New York

    Did you raise the temp during those 2 days. The lagering under pressure is some crazy stuff.
     
  2. TheBeerery

    TheBeerery Initiate (0) May 2, 2016 Minnesota

    No I never raise temp. Spunding temp never goes above fermentation temp for me.
     
  3. Silver_Is_Money

    Silver_Is_Money Devotee (337) Jun 4, 2017 Ohio

  4. TheBeerery

    TheBeerery Initiate (0) May 2, 2016 Minnesota

    It’s not a thing with german strains and proper yeast health and pitch rates.
     
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  5. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    So a full Smack-Pack for 5 gallons then? I jest. Actually, I would be interested in hearing about your pitch rates.
     
  6. TheBeerery

    TheBeerery Initiate (0) May 2, 2016 Minnesota

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  7. Prep8611

    Prep8611 Savant (1,208) Aug 22, 2014 New Jersey

    If I was using dry yeast that's about 3 packs of 34/70 for 5 gallons?
     
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  8. TheBeerery

    TheBeerery Initiate (0) May 2, 2016 Minnesota

    I think it’s around 44grams rehydrated. However dry yeast does not perform well in this scenario so we don’t recommend using it. The pitch rates with dry yeasts are fermented cold go up substantially.
     
  9. OldBrewer

    OldBrewer Maven (1,385) Jan 13, 2016 Canada (ON)

    @TheBeerery, do you have any write-ups on crashing the beer to lagering temperature immediately after fermentation, and not leaving it on the yeast to "finish up"? I find this technique fascinating and it seems to go against what is commonly recommended.
     
  10. TheBeerery

    TheBeerery Initiate (0) May 2, 2016 Minnesota

    It does finish up with yeast. The same yeast that transferred over with it to carbonate it.
     
  11. OldBrewer

    OldBrewer Maven (1,385) Jan 13, 2016 Canada (ON)

    But - once you immediately crash cool it to lagering temperatures, doesn't that just "shock" the yeast and bring out off-flavors?
     
    #51 OldBrewer, Jan 14, 2018
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2018
  12. OldBrewer

    OldBrewer Maven (1,385) Jan 13, 2016 Canada (ON)

    According to Chris White ("Yeast: The Practical Guide to Yeast Fermentation), : "... very rapid reduction of temperature (less than 6 hours) at the end of fermentation can cause the yeast to excrete more ester compounds instead of retaining them. In addition, if you plan to use the yeast for repitching, you should avoid very rapid temperature changes (up or down) as they can cause the yeast to express heat shock proteins".
     
  13. utahbeerdude

    utahbeerdude Maven (1,374) May 2, 2006 Utah


    Thanks for spelling out the details. I'd be interested in hearing about pH, specifically mash pH. What is your target mash pH typically? Do you measure it at mash temperatures or room temperature? Cheers!
     
  14. TheBeerery

    TheBeerery Initiate (0) May 2, 2016 Minnesota

    The main yeast cake, was left in the fermenter, only a little bit was carried over to finish fermentation and carbonate. There is really no more yeast present then when one would normally move and cold crash anyways. This is pretty standard German brewing process. No, I do not see off flavors.
     
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  15. TheBeerery

    TheBeerery Initiate (0) May 2, 2016 Minnesota

    See above.
     
  16. TheBeerery

    TheBeerery Initiate (0) May 2, 2016 Minnesota

    I always target the same pH. I look at pH in 3 places, Mash, Knockout, and post fermentation. For the Mash I ALWAYS target 5.4, but sometimes dark beers come in lower. Reasoning behind this is this is a great compromise for enzymatic action and the redox potential improves. Following 5.4 into the boil nets better hop utilization and also splits dms in half the time of a lower pH. At knock out (10 minutes before actually)I lower pH to around 5.0-1 to help with break, and to shorten yeast lag time. Then I always make sure to check finishing pH as this is an indicator of stability and shelf life going forward. All my pH samples are taken at room temp.
     
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  17. Silver_Is_Money

    Silver_Is_Money Devotee (337) Jun 4, 2017 Ohio

    TheBerry, if I wanted to attempt a minimal foray into LoDO, would it suffice to simply add KMeta alone to my strike and sparge waters? I batch sparge, generally with 5 gallons of strike water, and around 3.5 to 4 gallons for the sparge. I have KMeta powder on hand from wine-making. How much should I add in grams (or fractions of a gram) for these quantities of strike and sparge water?

    Should I also consider adding AA and BTB to my strike and sparge waters, and if so at what gram quantities? I can get AA from my LHBS, and there is at least one HBS in the USA said to be selling BTB at present.
     
  18. TheBeerery

    TheBeerery Initiate (0) May 2, 2016 Minnesota


    You need to preboil first.
    http://www.lowoxygenbrewing.com/low-oxygen-methods/
     
  19. Silver_Is_Money

    Silver_Is_Money Devotee (337) Jun 4, 2017 Ohio

  20. utahbeerdude

    utahbeerdude Maven (1,374) May 2, 2006 Utah

    @TheBeerery, to follow up on your response, are your outlined pH's consistent with what you know about commercial German brewing? If you have such information, is there much variation in desired pH values among commercial breweries? In general, I'd like to find out more about what is typical for commercial brewing. Thanks!
     
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