Brewing an extract IPA tomorrow

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by BigJoeC, Aug 2, 2013.

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  1. BigJoeC

    BigJoeC Zealot (563) Jan 22, 2011 New Jersey

    I started using BeerSmith and like the way it has the green zones for the style beer you're brewing. I played with an extract IPA recipe and this is what I came up with for tomorrow.

    5 gal batch

    Steep:
    8oz Vienna Malt
    8oz carapils

    Boil:
    9lb light LME

    Hops:
    60 min 1oz Centennial
    20 min 1/3oz Centennial, 1/5oz Cascade, 1/5oz Willamette
    10 min 1/3oz Centennial, 1/5oz Cascade, 1/5oz Willamette
    5 min 1/3oz Centennial, 1/5oz Cascade, 1/5oz Willamette

    Yeast: WL California Ale

    Dry Hop in secondary 2/5oz Cascade, 2/5oz Willamette

    I considered adding 4oz dark brown sugar to balance color and slightly increase abv but I don't know that I'll do that.

    Any thoughts?
     
  2. JohnSnowNW

    JohnSnowNW Initiate (0) Feb 6, 2013 Minnesota

    Not used to seeing fractions like that. Anyway, I'd advise dry hopping in primary...skip secondary. Personally, I wouldn't use brown sugar in an IPA, but that's totally up to you.
     
  3. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Initiate (0) Dec 20, 2006 New York

    Vienna malt needs to be mashed, it should not be steeped.
     
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  4. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Grand Pooh-Bah (3,452) May 21, 2010 Texas
    Society Pooh-Bah


    This was the first thing I noticed too. If you can steep, you can do a mini-mash. use about 1.25 quarts per pound of grain. Make sure temp stays at around 150-155 for at least half an hour.

    beersmith does do fractions, but I think unless it's a specifically common fraction, that you should put your recipe's weights in grams. I'm pretty good at math, but I am not visualizing immediately what 1/3 plus 1/5 plus 1/5 of an ounce is adding up to (and I ain't adding no fractions to figure it out). But I'd say it seems quite light on the hops for an IPA, particularly for nine pounds of LME.
     
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  5. BigJoeC

    BigJoeC Zealot (563) Jan 22, 2011 New Jersey

    So, when I steep I do so at 150-155 for 30 minutes. Is the only difference (probably an important one still) that mashing includes rinsing as well?

    Also, the fractions would definitely be converted for my scale but I figured since I buy by the ounce I would use fractions of an ounce. I wanted 3 hop additions and some dry hops. I didn't want to dry hop the Centennial as it is the higher AA. So, I split the Centennial into thirds for the 3 hop additions. I also decided that 3/5th of an ounce of each Cascade and Willamette would be good for the 3 hop additions, giving me 2/5th each for the dry hopping. I chunked them all in a specific order in my original post hoping it would be easier to understand/notice.....I guess it didn't work the way I hoped.

    I will dry hop in the primary after the bulk of fermentation. I'll wait for the brown sugar until I do a few experimental one gal batches.

    The IBU of the recipe I put together above is around 57. Does anyone think I should forget the dry hopping and just add the .4 ounces each of Cascade and Willamette into the boil? 57 isn't too bad and the hop aroma I hope to get from the dry hopping could be nice.
     
  6. Robtobfest

    Robtobfest Initiate (0) Oct 21, 2009 Connecticut

    What is the point of the brown sugar? Color? Extract recipes will be darker than mash anyway . It will also bump you abv.
     
  7. BigJoeC

    BigJoeC Zealot (563) Jan 22, 2011 New Jersey

    I did the sugar in BeerSmith to see what it would do and how it changed the color. I'm not going to do it though.
     
  8. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Initiate (0) Dec 20, 2006 New York

    The temp is important as is the water to grain ratio (1.25-1.5 qts/lb is a good starting point). Rinsing (aka sparging) is not strictly necessary, though you can if you want.
     
  9. PapaGoose03

    PapaGoose03 Grand High Pooh-Bah (6,057) May 30, 2005 Michigan
    BA4LYFE Society Pooh-Bah

    The length of time in the water is also a defining difference between the mash and a steep, isn't it? I've always looked at 30 minutes being the absolute minimum amount of time to have a successful mash, but a steep can get away with a just 20 minute session. Maybe a steep adds more to the flavor than it does sugar?
     
  10. BigJoeC

    BigJoeC Zealot (563) Jan 22, 2011 New Jersey

    So mashing 1 pound of grains in 6 gal of wanter isn't a great idea, that's considered the steeping concept.
     
  11. ipas-for-life

    ipas-for-life Savant (1,041) Feb 28, 2012 Virginia

    I would add the .4 ounces of each hop to the 5 minute addition. And use at least 2 oz's of dry hops. Also centennial works great for dry hopping.
     
  12. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    The length of time can certainly affect the efficiency and the fermentability of a mash. But a short-ish mash does not a 'steep' become.
     
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  13. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Grand Pooh-Bah (3,452) May 21, 2010 Texas
    Society Pooh-Bah

    The water to grain ratio ensures your enzymes are concentrated enough to convert the sugars present. 1.25-1.5 lb/gal is going to give you a good concentration of enzymes and will ensure conversion. Yes, 6 gallons to one pound (or in your case, a half pound of grains that actually have enzymes) won't be appropriate, and will leave starches in the wort (starches = bad).

    I would also add more dry hops and use all of your remaining hops as a late addition. Ipas-for-life's suggestion is right on the money. If you're gonna make an IPA, hop it like an IPA. Use MOAR hops. :sunglasses:

    Bulk hops are cheeper if you're going to do any significant amount of brewing.
     
  14. BigJoeC

    BigJoeC Zealot (563) Jan 22, 2011 New Jersey

    All this advice is greatly appreciated. I've been thinking about buying in bulk. I would think that pellet hops would last a while in an air tight container. Just not sure how long. Also, she. It comes to mashing all grain and getting away from extract I'm wondering what that would save me.
     
  15. BigJoeC

    BigJoeC Zealot (563) Jan 22, 2011 New Jersey

    Thanks! Adding the 2/5ths of each Willamette and Cascade into the boil, what yould you suggest adding to the primary to dry hop? I like the freshness and floral aspects of Cascade personally.
     
  16. FATC1TY

    FATC1TY Pooh-Bah (2,564) Feb 12, 2012 Georgia
    Pooh-Bah

    That hop schedule needs a little work, not really an IPA hop schedule if thats what your leaning towards.

    How many IBU's did beersmith calculate?
     
  17. BigJoeC

    BigJoeC Zealot (563) Jan 22, 2011 New Jersey


    57 IBUs
     
  18. BigJoeC

    BigJoeC Zealot (563) Jan 22, 2011 New Jersey


    What would you recommend?
     
  19. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Grand Pooh-Bah (3,452) May 21, 2010 Texas
    Society Pooh-Bah


    I'm a big cascade fan too. 2-3 oz should world nicely.
     
  20. FATC1TY

    FATC1TY Pooh-Bah (2,564) Feb 12, 2012 Georgia
    Pooh-Bah

    Well, IPA's would be hoppier. You've got some IBU's there from a centennial 60min addition obviously, and then not much else there hop wise.

    .73 ounces added each from 20, 10 and 5, will leave not a whole lot of hoppy goodness, and very little aroma, coupled with not even a half ounce of hops for a dry hop.

    Willamette plays well with those hops, it's a good combo I think so stick with it.

    I would suggest a good bittering charge at 60, shoot for the same 50-60 IBU's if thats where you like it. You'll use less at 60, if you pound it late with other hops.

    I'd make your additions starting at 10 minutes or so. Use an ounce of Centennial, and an ounce of Cascade. If you want to be frugal, atleast do half an ounce of both at this addition.

    5 minutes, I'd toss in Centennial at an ounce, and then willamette at an ounce.

    Flame out- Kill the boil, and you have a couple of options. Add hops immediately, give you some isomerization and some IBU's ( very little ), chill it down to around 170 and add hops, and let it stand for 20-30 minutes, or do both. Some early, some late.

    I like to do both. Do a little early and alot late.

    Personally, I'd do atleast half an ounce of all 3 hops there for a hopstand, and would up one hop that I really want to shine. I'd probably do Centennial myself, but it's not my beer.

    Do a dry hop with atleast an ounce of say.. cascade and willamette.. for 7-14 days at room temp and get it ready to drink!
     
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