Building a manifold for a mash tun

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by raoulduke37, May 1, 2012.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. raoulduke37

    raoulduke37 Initiate (0) Dec 31, 2008 California

    Hello all -

    I am slowly gathering up all needed supplies for AG brewing. The last step is building a mash tun. I saw this on Howtobrew.com: http://howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixD-1.html. Has anybody actually built this type of manifold (circle split into four quadrants), and if so, does it increase mash efficiency? It recommends using copper instead of stainless steel. Thoughts?

    Thanks,

    Art
     
  2. funkel81

    funkel81 Initiate (0) Jan 23, 2011 Colorado

  3. JCTetreault

    JCTetreault Initiate (0) Mar 19, 2008 Massachusetts

    I used to use a bazooka tube w/ my round cooler. It would routinely get clogged when I overstuffed the thing or used a lot of flaked adjunct and definitely when I was making RIS. I've since moved to a rectangular cooler (and now to a giant stainless hot water tub!) but the copper manifold works like a charm, even w/ the valve wide open, even with my red rye that has ~18% rye malt. Use soft copper tubing if you want to use the four quadrant design, but be gentle with it, as it can kink. personally, I wouldn't bother, just make a square, and run the wort off slowly enough to avoid channeling.
     
  4. ventura78

    ventura78 Pundit (972) Nov 22, 2003 Massachusetts

    I bought a 5 foot braided hose made for a dish washer. Cut the ends off, pulled the rubber hose out, folded over one end and clamped it, and attached the other end to my ball valve. works nice.....
     
  5. clearbrew

    clearbrew Initiate (0) Nov 3, 2009 Louisiana

    I don't see how it would increase your mash efficiency. It may decrease the amount of time it takes to collect runoff.
    I use the same setup as funkel81. It works fine,and it is a lot less fuss than bending, soldering and drilling copper tubing.
    If you do go with the copper be sure to use lead-free solder and flux.
     
  6. JMF

    JMF Initiate (0) Mar 10, 2012 California

    What is your sparging method going to be?
    Batch? Fly?
     
  7. raoulduke37

    raoulduke37 Initiate (0) Dec 31, 2008 California

    Most likely batch to start, but move to fly eventually, once I get a feel for volume/efficiency.
     
  8. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    If you're going to do fly, then you'll want to build some sort of manifold or false bottom. (Bazookas and braids are not ideal for fly sparging.)

    Edit: I started out fly sparging, switched to batch, and never looked back. It's so much simpler, and more foolproof from a sparge pH perspective.
     
    kjyost likes this.
  9. Beerontwowheels

    Beerontwowheels Initiate (0) Nov 22, 2009 Maryland

    When and if I move on from BIAB, I'll keep this in mind. Batch sparging does seem a whole lot easier.
     
  10. JMF

    JMF Initiate (0) Mar 10, 2012 California

    This.....

    Except I went from batch to a fly/continuous sparge and probably won't look back :slight_smile:
     
  11. raoulduke37

    raoulduke37 Initiate (0) Dec 31, 2008 California

    I think I may be with you on this one. That being so, what type of mash tun are you using?
     
  12. llllDrGONZOllll

    llllDrGONZOllll Initiate (0) Mar 19, 2009 Pennsylvania

    Depending on your set up it may be ideal to just spend the money now on a false bottom setup. I did both batch sparging and fly with it and both worked great for it. I started out due to cash flow, with a rectangle cooler and a stainless braid. The major drawback with the cheap set up is the batch sparging didn't work out so great. I got great efficiency with a split batch sparge compared to the single spare. I find now that the fly sparge is easier and I get great efficiency with out having to run out super slow. I also stopped "mashing out" when I moved to fly. To each his own I prefer to fly, but I have the choice using the false bottom.
     
  13. llllDrGONZOllll

    llllDrGONZOllll Initiate (0) Mar 19, 2009 Pennsylvania

  14. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    Currently (and for the foreseeable future) I'm using one of these...

    http://brewing.lustreking.com/gear/mashtun.html

    Except that mine is 52 quart. Otherwise, I followed those instructions very closely.
     
  15. raoulduke37

    raoulduke37 Initiate (0) Dec 31, 2008 California

    All great advice. Thanks, everyone! Brew on!
     
  16. tngolfer

    tngolfer Initiate (0) Feb 16, 2012 Tennessee

    Agree 100%. I've tried both and batch sparging is worth the small efficiency you lose in the time you gain.
     
  17. Swim424

    Swim424 Pundit (881) Apr 29, 2011 Florida

  18. TheMonkfish

    TheMonkfish Initiate (0) Jan 8, 2012 Chad

    I did the same and am pretty happy with the results. Check out KMart if any of you want that cooler. They've been running online deals - after savings codes I walked out with a 52 quart cooler for $25.
     
  19. TheMonkfish

    TheMonkfish Initiate (0) Jan 8, 2012 Chad

    Also if you go copper you may wish to leave the joints unsoldered so you can take the whole thing apart to clean it (if needed.) I left mine unsoldered except for one tricky section - it doesn't come apart until you want it to. Good stuff.
     
  20. MLucky

    MLucky Initiate (0) Jul 31, 2010 California

    Me, too, with a slight varation. I stripped some copper wire, coiled it around a pencil, and threaded it into the braided hose just as insurance against it collapsing. Then I put a "t" on my ball valve and clamped the ends of the hose to it to form a circle.
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.