For those of you that use counterflow or plate chillers...do you recirculate back into the kettle until the entire wort volume reaches pitching temps, or do you transfer straight into fermenter at pitching temps?
I recirculate back to kettle. Tap water is used until wort reaches ~120, then use a second pump to squirt 'bout 5 gals of ice-water slurry through chiller to reach mid-60s. About half the time I'm whirlpooling some hops so having a recirc pump is handy.
I just recently ordered a plate chiller. So I haven’t used it yet. However, I plan on recirculating back into the kettle. After temperature is reached I’ll whirlpool and collect wort. I like to leave as much of the trub and other debris out of my fermenter.
This is really the heart of my poorly asked question. I've seen posts that say to just transfer straight into the fermenter, but that doesn't allow for the cold break to settle out. What are the big negatives of bringing over too much trub into the fermenter?
If you decide to recirc, here's a better'n average pump that won't break the bank: https://www.amazon.com/temperature-...s+vide+food+grade+pump&qid=1590165971&sr=8-10 Also, this is ideal for conventional whirlpooling of hops. Mine has been in service for 7+ years and hasn't skipped a beat.
I do have a pump, but my groundwater is cool enough where I can go straight to the fermenter. I'm just wondering if I'm not leaving enough cold break behind...
I never gave the cold break much thought. I run through the plate chiller back to kettle until I get my exit wort temp under control, I then divert to the fermenter. I’m interested to hear what people have to say about it.
I go straight from the kettle to the plate chiller to fermenter. My well water is something like 50-55F year round IIRC, so it's easy to get the whole volume chilled to pitching temp (of ales anyway) and into the fermenter in 5-10 min. I've wondered about the cold break proteins but never had much in the way of chill haze. I also don't get much in the way of hop debris and trub. If I'm brewing an IPA or a pale ale, I always use a hopback so that acts as a filter anyway. If it's any other style, there's generally not much in the way of hop debris to begin with. I have a hopblocker around my pick up tube in my kettle, which certainly isn't perfect but does help.
I am planning on buying a plate chiller.. I usually made 5-gallon batches would a 20 plate Chiller be good enough.. And how does it work when you circulate when doing an IPA... My friend told me his counterflow chiller plugs up when he has a heavy hop Edition...
I too go directly from the kettle (9-gal) through a counterflow chiller into the fermenter. Town water temp is typically 60-65F. I installed ball valves at the input and output of the chiller to control the water flow, and a thermometer at the wort output. First I stir the wort around the edge of the kettle with the big spoon to cause a whirlpool. That causes a lot of trub to gather at the center bottom of the kettle and minimizes the amount going through the chiller.
When I used my CFC I would recirc to 180, shut off the water, and add my whirlpool addition. Then turn the water back on to dial in the temp exiting the chiller and bring the temp down to about 130 in the kettle, then head to the fermenter.
To answer my own OP...I now recirculate until I hit 130ish. I have noticed a great improvement to head retention after allowing for a proper cold break.
That is "slang" for recirculation pump. In the photo above the wort comes out of the kettle (large tube) by gravity into the plate chiller. Then gravity pushes it through the chiller into the pump (white) which pushes it through the small tubing back into the kettle. So the wort is circulated through the chiller until the lower temperature is reached. Not shown are cooling lines that feed cold water into and out of the chiller.
