Closed Transfer Question

I have one of those, and it works fine. But the ones that can be built according to these plans seem easier to adjust:
http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2011/02/build-spunding-valve.html

Oh man. I don't have a clue about where to get specs for a Cornelius keg lid (with the hole) or the pressure relief valve (that partially opens the hole). I'd be willing to send you an assembly if that would work. If it helps you decide whether that would likely be useful (and if you're not familiar with corny kegs), the lids look like this...

And the PRV part which screws into the lid looks like this...

The threads are near the top. The long narrow bit is surrounded by a spring.

 

Resurrecting this thread in case others are looking to build a spunding valve.
(Underlined text are links)

For the previously linked HomeBrewFinds spunding valve article, all the parts listed for Style 1 are still available via the links in the HBF article except the 1/4″ NPT Male x 1/4″ JIC Male. I found them at this page on ebay. As of this post there are seven available.
I don’t know how much of a difference it makes for the application, but the one from ebay is plated steel and the one no longer available is carbon steel.

If you’re not concerned with rigid construction, Styles 2, 3 and 4 in the HBF article use vinyl tubing to attach the QD to the Tee.

 

Close Xfers are for days you don't have enough other things to do.

 

Could be....but probably less time consuming than a remote transfer.

 

That's like the one I put together, the main differences being my pressure gauge is liquid-filled and goes to 30psi. The pressure relief valve looks to be identical....red pipe dope and all.

I have keg that was empty and then pressurized with CO2 to 15psi per another gauge. When I installed the new spunding valve assembly on that keg the new gauge on the assembly also registered 15psi. When adjusting the PRV down it started releasing pressure at about the 35psi mark.
There's a plug on the top of the gauge with instructions to "pull and re-plug the metal knob on the rubber cap for releasing internal pressure to assure accuracy", which I did.

Question; does anyone know if that type valve needs to be (or even can be) calibrated? And if so, how would that be accomplished?