Cold side oxidation in pale lager

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by thebriansmaude, Oct 19, 2020.

Tags:
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. The_Modern_Brewhouse

    The_Modern_Brewhouse Initiate (195) Sep 25, 2020 Minnesota

    Into the headspace, then using gas laws, right into the beer, which is where I think you were going with that.
     
  2. The_Modern_Brewhouse

    The_Modern_Brewhouse Initiate (195) Sep 25, 2020 Minnesota

    Back to the topic at hand, Bright beers can easily be had fast and without the need for fining and filtering.

    Here is a Vienna from spund to drinking
    Spund Clarity
    [​IMG]

    1 week of lagering.
    [​IMG]


    With a few weeks of lagering

    [​IMG]

    It's all about process.
     
    KCUnited likes this.
  3. thebriansmaude

    thebriansmaude Crusader (472) Dec 16, 2016 Canada (AB)
    Trader

    I'd love to hear some process tips for a guy with a non - space shuttle type brewing rig :slight_smile:

    Normally on the cold side I like to think my process is pretty tight: I'm harvesting fermentation CO2 to a spunding keg, pitching huge yeast starters, spunding and lagering near 0. For the beer in question (I checked my notes) I actually used WLP 802, and I didn't spund. I cold crashed under 2-3 psi.. I used irish moss for kettle finings, although I'm not 100% sure I whirlpooled at the correct pH.

    @VikeMan - My gelatin blaster rig was invented out of a desire to use gelatin with as little O2 introduction as possible, I wonder if it is similar to what you have? I still think it could work if done correctly. Consider this: what if you take the PET bottle, pour a the 160* degree gelatin solution in, then add an absolute minuscule amount of SMB - would have to do the math on what would be like, say 10ppm for a quarter cup of solution - but it would be like a few flakes probably. Then squeeze all the air out of the PET bottle, cap with carb cap, then fill with CO2, then purge a couple more times for good luck. Then hook up to the gas post and blast into the keg. Could work ?

    The fact remains, as pretty much everyone in this thread has agreed - just give it more time, use a higher floc yeast. I'm fully on board. I think this beer was so drastically wrecked because it had already lagered for nearly 5 weeks, and was in a delicate state so that any introduction of O2 was just a wrecking ball.

    I also think if finings are going to be used, its probably better to use them early on.

    Cheers everyone, thanks for your input ! this has been a super interesting discussion so far!
     
    VikeMan likes this.
  4. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    My "blaster" is a syringe and tubing fitted to a corny gas disconnect. Interesting idea about the Metabisulfite. Of course I'm aware of that as a mash HSA-prevention tool, but it hadn't occurred to me for gelatin solution. Hmm.
     
    thebriansmaude likes this.
  5. The_Modern_Brewhouse

    The_Modern_Brewhouse Initiate (195) Sep 25, 2020 Minnesota

    Wort production (hot side) is just as important as cold side for clarity. Nice clear wort, gentle thermal and sheer stress, will remove, eliminate, not cause the fats and lipids. Gentle boil will not participate coagulable nitrogen which will help foam, and yeast health.
    Water profile (enough CA)
    Good mash regimen (beta enzymes for healthy fermentation)
    Adding finings at the proper time/pH is also a very large part of it. You mention Irish Moss, so you should rehydrate this at least 24hrs in advance for it to do its magic. A pH of 5.1 at addition is best, and make sure timing is right as well, most of the time folks add it way to early and it denatures.
    Personally I use a triple pronged approach. PH lowered before additions
    BrewtanB@ 7min left in boil
    Whirlfoc @ 5min left in boil
    PVPP@ 3min left in boil

    Post chilling a sedimentation period is used (~30 minutes)
    then clear wort is racked to the fermenter. It should look like finished beer as far as clarity.

    Using a nice flocing yeast is always good. Making sure you have enough calcium (using BTB will chelate calcium about 10ppm per addition). Using a floating diptube is the last part.

    I think thats the jist of it.

    There is no way of adding anything to beer without adding oxygen with it. This is common (professional) knowledge. Homebrewers have the unique advantage here with being able to spund and not have to move their beer.
     
    riptorn and thebriansmaude like this.
  6. thebriansmaude

    thebriansmaude Crusader (472) Dec 16, 2016 Canada (AB)
    Trader

    Awesome. I think this is an area I could improve on. I always notice that as soon as I cut the flame to the kettle I get a really good looking cold break starting, but as I continue to stir (I have an immersion chiller) the whirlpool to speed up chilling, the flocs get smaller and smaller, and then by the time I'm close to pitching temp, they don't want to settle out as easily, even with a good long settling period. I'll have to focus on this area next time !
     
    riptorn likes this.
  7. skivtjerry

    skivtjerry Pooh-Bah (1,865) Mar 10, 2006 Vermont
    Pooh-Bah

    Into the atmosphere.
     
  8. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    Ok, if the keg is open long enough for some of this O2 to get to the atmosphere, what's stopping atmospheric O2 from diffusing into the keg?
     
  9. billandsuz

    billandsuz Pooh-Bah (2,097) Sep 1, 2004 New York
    Pooh-Bah

    Given time, oxygen in atmosphere will equilibrate with the once boiled water and eventually it would get to 8 ppm. This much we know. I think the amount of oxygen that can creep into 90 degree water, in a few minutes, is probably very little. But I never really overthought the process because I don't really see too much of an oxidation issue in my brews.

    So my method is boil about 2 ounces or so in the microwave. Cool to around 90. Add a half pack of knox. Let sit for a minute. Dump into a purged keg. Transfer beer into keg.

    Or, if I decided the kegged beer needs some clarity, just add

    Next time I am farting around with a DO meter I'll try to measure the level in 90F water. Next time, it may be a while.
    Cheers.
     
  10. billandsuz

    billandsuz Pooh-Bah (2,097) Sep 1, 2004 New York
    Pooh-Bah

    [​IMG]
     
  11. skivtjerry

    skivtjerry Pooh-Bah (1,865) Mar 10, 2006 Vermont
    Pooh-Bah

    It will, given enough time, but not immediately. CO2 is slightly denser than air (or oxygen) so O2 ingress should be minimal if things don't get stirred up too much. Though whenever I have a keg open I'm generally purging with 1-2psi of gas.

    To me, the scariest oxidation hazard is dry hopping.
     
  12. billandsuz

    billandsuz Pooh-Bah (2,097) Sep 1, 2004 New York
    Pooh-Bah

    Welcome to BA!
    I would recommend avoiding commentary that could be read as snark. For at least a little while. But do as you wish.
     
    MrOH likes this.
  13. utahbeerdude

    utahbeerdude Maven (1,374) May 2, 2006 Utah

    Once upon a time I did this with my lagers. For simplicity, I abandoned this step. I may give it a try next time to see if it improves the beer. My lagers are certainly drinkable (and better than many commercial lagers, which perhaps isn’t saying all that much), but not really quite as clean as I would like. Cheers!
     
  14. The_Modern_Brewhouse

    The_Modern_Brewhouse Initiate (195) Sep 25, 2020 Minnesota

    You can guess or you can measure. I chose to measure.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Temp in C
     
  15. billandsuz

    billandsuz Pooh-Bah (2,097) Sep 1, 2004 New York
    Pooh-Bah

    Wow. Answered our questions. Thank you. Finally puts this to rest.
    With this sort of control it must be really easy to make great beer.

    Your beers must be awesome! Unbelievable control and monitoring.
    I would love to try some beer brewed with this sort of advanced control.
    Where?
     
    The_Modern_Brewhouse likes this.
  16. invertalon

    invertalon Pooh-Bah (2,249) Jan 27, 2009 Ohio
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    This is "TheBeerery" under a new user tag, it appears. So he is not new to these forums (or his snark!).
     
  17. MrOH

    MrOH Grand Pooh-Bah (3,995) Jul 5, 2010 Virginia
    BA4LYFE Society Pooh-Bah

    This guy with all his gadgets.
    I completely stand by my statement in some other thread that if I had his setup, I'd lose interest in homebrewing, as it would be work instead of a hobby.
     
    Elvis_on_Bass and skivtjerry like this.
  18. skivtjerry

    skivtjerry Pooh-Bah (1,865) Mar 10, 2006 Vermont
    Pooh-Bah

    That's one of many reasons I never seriously considered opening a brewery (that, and I'd be working twice as hard for half the money). I enjoy my low tech system, except maybe when I'm brewing outdoors on a 10F degree day.
     
    billandsuz and MrOH like this.
  19. billandsuz

    billandsuz Pooh-Bah (2,097) Sep 1, 2004 New York
    Pooh-Bah

    I often state that brewers have been making great beers since before thermometer was invented. All of the tools in the world do not a great brewer make.

    And, anyone who tells you how awesome they are, at anything, is simply not the smartest guy in the room.
    But we go round and round with some folks it seems.
    If everyone just accepted my superiority, or something, there would be no disagreement. After all, I alone have all the answers and have little to learn from the discussions at this site.

    Or something.
    Cheers
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.