I have done some searching and have not cleared up all of my questions. Eventually I will be bottling my Supplication Clone and would like to cork and Cap the bottles for aging. 1- Can I cork my regular Homebrew store 12 oz beer bottles or are they too weak? 2- Which size cork works best if I am able to use the regular beer bottles mentioned above? 3- Do i just put the cap on as normal after corking? I read something about steaming the cap on?......Please explain. Thanks for the help friends.
I might be mistaken, but I think hes talking about cork and caging. Otherwise, i have no idea what OP is talking about
You should be able to cage normal bottles, but they arent suited to high vols of co2 you might want in a sour, if your simply doing 12oz bottles it would be much cheaper and easier to simply cap the bottles, save the time and more importantly $$ on bigger bottles to cage
I would use Belgian 750s or the short 350ml and 25.5 corks and standard cages. No steaming required just a floor corker. Don't mess with corks in 12oz not only are most thinner at the neck it takes longer to cork/cage and doesn't look as nice as the Belgian bottles in my opinion.
The corking press I use would almost definitely break regular bottles. I do 750s and 375s...and as mentioned earlier I don't think it's really necessary, but I do like it and does give me peace of mind in bottling sours.
To tag onto this post, do those of you who use corks and cages lay the bottles on there sides or maintain upright? A couple years ago I bottled a flanders red and corked half of the batch in Belgian bottles. All of the corked bottles never carbonated and the ones I did with caps were fine. I was wondering if I lost all my CO2 through the dry corks?
I'm sure it is possible but I have had some corked bottles that were more than 8yrs old and they were carbed fine. I'm sure if the wrong size corked was used there could be some issues.
I keep them upright and they've carbonated fine. There must have been some sort of issue with your corks.
