Has anyone ever made custom tap handles? I got a few brand new corvette pistons from a friend that I would love to use on my new Keezer build but I have no experience with tapping holes into aluminum but I would like to tap the holes under the rod pin holes (Not the crank bore). I know that the tap/tool I need is a 3/8" X 16 UNC (Uniform coarse thread) for it to fit on my new tap faucets. I really don't like the look of commercial handles for homebrew so let me know if you guys have any suggestions or tips on doing this by hand as I do not have access to a lathe or machine shop. Also, if you have any pictures of your DIY projects, feel free to share. Thanks!
Tapping aluminum isn't hard. For every tap size there is a recommended drill size. Center punch the part, use that drill size and drill it. To make life easier you can use tapping fluid like Tap Magic but it isn't required. After you drill, start the tap as straight as you can. Do not try to just drive the tap in all the way in one direction. Use a little back and forth. When it gets tight, back it up. Try it out on some scrap first. You aren't going to have a lot of thread engagement there, you may want to back it up with a nut on the other side.
The drill tap I need is actually to use on the piston rod is a 5/16 based on the 3/8" x 16 UNC standard.
I plan on getting about 5/16" thread engagement but given the fact that the rod is heavy, I may need to use a nut on the other side like you said. Thanks!
You will also need to keep an eye on the faucet, they are not really meant for supporting lots of weight. Tap handles are in general pretty light.
I didn't even think of this. Now I'm starting to think that the piston rod may be too heavy and not function properly. It is considerably heavier than the small wooden handles I have now. Do you know of any tips/tricks for heavy tap handles? A local bar has custom tap handles that are all cast iron so they must have figured it out.
the weight is definitely a concern. the taller the handle the more problems too. the thing is basically a giant lever. I don't have any idea the weight of the material you are using. I imagine lighter than the average piston. there are a few things you can consider that would help. use good faucets. Perlicks or at least name brand and not the no name junk. upgrade to all stainless, or at least use a stainless lever. this thing, only stainless- sometimes very heavy faucet markers can pull the faucet open on their own just by gravity if not completely pushed back. they can lean forward or not shut the plunger completely. then you will drain all your beer. open the faucet at the bottom, don't grab the top of the handle and jerk it forward like half of the shitty bartenders will often do. again, it's a lever and multiplies force. just grab the back at the bottom with two fingers and flick it forward, then gently shut the valve. if you yank on the thing you risk busting the lever clear off. and it will be open when this happens too. not necessarily. custom markers are popular but that doesn't mean they are doing it right. maybe. or maybe they are hard headed and just live with the headaches. good luck. edit I use these. they aren't custom but look very nice. a lot nicer than the run of the mill markers. just chrome, solid and feel good in the hand.
Thanks man, appreciate all the comments. This thread ended up giving me more questions than answers and this project is turning into a lot more research than expected.
Quick update for you guys. I ended up drilling and tapping by hand and it came out pretty nice. Obviously not perfectly straight but definitely looks good in my opinion. Let me know what you guys think.
Why not just mount it 90° (clockwise) so that the unit is angled toward the pourer? (You might need a locknut to keep it in position and might have to counterbore from the bottom for more threads to be exposed within the center hole). The "not perfectly straight" aspect would not be nearly as noticeable - heck, you could even claim you meant for the handle to tilt out.
Yeah, that'll work - the "blue" not the "red" (permanent)! But a locknut is cheaper ("free" - found in multiple drawers in the cellar/garage - usually every drawer but the one marked "3/8-16 Nuts" in my experience. )
