Desperate for a solution to my oxidation problems!

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by MiScusi, Mar 19, 2015.

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  1. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    I am one of those people who brews light colored hoppy beers without experiencing oxidation issues. I can report that I do not use an auto-siphon in my homebrewery.

    Above you can read the post by @Scumbag81 where he suggests that an auto-siphon is a source of excess oxidation.

    Cheers!
     
  2. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    To pile on... There was a similar thread a couple years ago, but I can't find it. I remember it though because I ended up sampling some of the poster's beers. Unusually dark color after conditioning, and sort of stale-ish flavor. And it was his IPAs and DIPAs that were having the problem. Sure sounds like hoppy beers are a common theme here.
     
  3. Mag00n

    Mag00n Initiate (0) Nov 21, 2008 New York

    So what do you use?
     
  4. MCBanjoMike

    MCBanjoMike Initiate (0) Aug 7, 2014 Canada (QC)

    Is there something about hops that would lead to a greater amount of color change in the beer? My second brew ever was a tripel that I transferred to a secondary, transferred to the bottling bucket and then bottled, all using the same autosiphon. That beer is still fairly light, despite being aged for 3 months and now being in bottles for about 3 more, but my IPAs all seem to darken with time. I'll probably try bottling my next batch from the spigot, rather than the siphon, but there's still the phase where you transfer to the bucket and add the bottling sugar that could introduce some oxygen. I know you can transfer under CO2 for kegging purposes, but I don't know how you could do something similar when bottling.
     
  5. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    I am 'old school': racking cane & tubing filled with tap water to 'prime' the siphon action.

    My process is very similar to this video except that I use tap water vs. sanitizer (Star San) to prime the siphon:

     
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  6. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    I'd say no, or at least not just hops as a single factor. There are plenty of extremely pale hoppy beers. But perhaps as a contributing factor, along with something else, like O2 or <insert hypothesis here>.
     
  7. MCBanjoMike

    MCBanjoMike Initiate (0) Aug 7, 2014 Canada (QC)

    Sorry, that's what I meant. Is there something about hops that would make a beer more susceptible to darkening than a not-hoppy beer that was treated the same way?
     
  8. jlordi12

    jlordi12 Pooh-Bah (1,856) Jun 8, 2011 Massachusetts
    Pooh-Bah

    Drink Faster?
     
  9. Tebuken

    Tebuken Initiate (0) Jun 6, 2009 Argentina


    I always purge the bottles this way : at 10 psi open CO2 valve for 3-4 sec then relief , once again the same, then a longer one of about 10 sec to make sure it is enough pressure inside the bottle before opening beer valve and relief valve to try to form the less foam as I can, never had oxidation problems with this method, I am convinced that my oxidation came from dry-hopping because I didn“t have this problem with the other last batches.
     
  10. Tebuken

    Tebuken Initiate (0) Jun 6, 2009 Argentina

    +1
     
  11. KeyWestGator

    KeyWestGator Savant (1,159) Jan 21, 2013 Florida
    Trader

    Do you use oxygen absorbing caps? I have no idea how well they work, or if they even work at all. Just a thought that popped into my head as I cap some bottles right now.
     
  12. Buck89

    Buck89 Grand Pooh-Bah (3,782) Feb 7, 2015 Tennessee
    Pooh-Bah Trader

  13. Tebuken

    Tebuken Initiate (0) Jun 6, 2009 Argentina

  14. inchrisin

    inchrisin Pooh-Bah (2,013) Sep 25, 2008 Indiana
    Pooh-Bah

    YUS!

    IPAs and IIPSs are crap until they are 2 months old.
     
  15. GetMeAnIPA

    GetMeAnIPA Pooh-Bah (2,559) Mar 28, 2009 California
    Pooh-Bah

    When I see breweries bottle they always over fill, but now that you mention this I always try to stop filling just before it overflows. I've only done a few batches and haven't really had any issues. Do you usually overflow when bottling? Is that recommended?
     
  16. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    I don't bottle very often, and when I do it's usually from a keg. But before I kegged, I used to bottle carbonate everything. In both cases I fill(ed) to overflowing, and then remove(d) the beer gun (or bottling wand). The gun/wand takes up space in the bottle, and when you pull it out, it leaves a fairly standard amount of headspace. Sometimes when bottling for competitions I pull the gun out half way and put a little more beer in the bottle before removing the gun, to reduce the headspace a bit. Less headspace means less O2, regardless of how well one thinks one is purging the space with CO2. (CO2 is a gas. Not a piston.)
     
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  17. GetMeAnIPA

    GetMeAnIPA Pooh-Bah (2,559) Mar 28, 2009 California
    Pooh-Bah

    Thx. I use a bottling wand, so next time I'll shoot for just slightly overfilling.
     
  18. premierpro

    premierpro Savant (1,060) Mar 21, 2009 Michigan

    I try not to overflow. I fill and try to stop when it is at the very top. A towel on the floor takes care of accidents. Take care.
     
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  19. WickedSluggy

    WickedSluggy Savant (1,129) Nov 21, 2008 Texas

    Try a complete change in process. How about avoiding bottling bucket completely? Bottle from your fermenter, and use carbonation sugar tabs/drops. It will help you narrow down the source of your problem.
     
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