Dry hopping question

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by heyduke, Mar 9, 2014.

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  1. FATC1TY

    FATC1TY Pooh-Bah (2,564) Feb 12, 2012 Georgia
    Pooh-Bah


    Alot of the craft guys use leaf. Don't tell SN their torpedo is broke. :wink:
     
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  2. jbakajust1

    jbakajust1 Pooh-Bah (2,552) Aug 25, 2009 Oregon
    Pooh-Bah

    I use whatever I have on hand for the recipe I made, which is usually leaf, since I grow a lot of the hops I use. I only buy pellets when I go in a bulk hop purchase like the Amarillo, Simcoe, and Mosaic we have gotten in the past, and that is because we don't have a choice on the type we get. I don't lose any wort to the leaf absorption as I use bags in the boil and wring them out well after the chill. I suspend the bag inside the keg and as the beer volume drops the beer will drip slowly out of the hops. Maybe I lose a pint or so, but not a big deal.
     
  3. ssam

    ssam Pundit (997) Dec 2, 2008 California

    Whole hops look cooler.
     
  4. FATC1TY

    FATC1TY Pooh-Bah (2,564) Feb 12, 2012 Georgia
    Pooh-Bah

    Also, if you are smart enough and use leaf, you can plan to brew more if you are worried about wort.
     
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  5. MTBrewr

    MTBrewr Initiate (0) Jan 9, 2014 Minnesota

    I've dry hopped a couple home brews with pellets now, and usually I use a small mesh bag, however, as many of you guys have mentioned plenty of hop chunks still sneak their way through. What's the best way to filter these out before bottling? I've read something about using some kind of steel mesh in the racking cane/wort thief?
     
  6. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    If the small hop particles really bother you, you could place a paint strainer bag on the end of your racking cane to ‘catch’ those particles.

    The other option is to just transfer without the strainer bag and let the small amount of hop stuff eventually settle to the bottom of your bottle/keg.

    Cheers!
     
  7. mattbk

    mattbk Savant (1,111) Dec 12, 2011 New York

    As far as I know, only SN and Victory are among large craft breweries that use leaf. But you're right - those two certainly can't do wrong in terms of using hops in beer!
     
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  8. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    @mattbk, I am also only aware of Sierra Nevada and Victory as being large craft breweries using whole leaf hop.
    I would think that for a commercial brewery that maintaining the whole hops as being fresh could be a challenge. It is my understanding that whole hops only have a 6 months to 1 year shelf life (even when stored cold). Needless to say that Sierra Nevada and Victory have figured out how to handle this problem but I can certainly see why other commercial breweries would prefer pellets with their longer shelf life.

    Cheers!
     
  9. barfdiggs

    barfdiggs Initiate (0) Mar 22, 2011 California


    Don't forget Deschutes.
     
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  10. FATC1TY

    FATC1TY Pooh-Bah (2,564) Feb 12, 2012 Georgia
    Pooh-Bah


    They've figured it out, because they are large breweries and can plan to use most of, or all of their contracts every year. Leaf hops stored correctly will last plenty long enough to be useful, homebrew or pro.
     
  11. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    No doubt. If the whole hops are used within 6 months to a year they will produce good beer.

    Cheers!
     
  12. ssam

    ssam Pundit (997) Dec 2, 2008 California

    Would it clog?
     
  13. poopinmybutt

    poopinmybutt Zealot (643) May 25, 2005 Nebraska

    why?
     
  14. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts

    I provides the opportunity to control the contact time and maximize the hops. The general axiom is wait a minimum of 14 days until bottling. Active fermentation should subside by day 6 or 7, getting you pretty close to that minimum. I just wait 10-14 days to start my dry hopping to make sure it's ready to bottle as soon as I want the dry hop to finish - that way I don't add the hops and find out the yeast is still cleaning up after itself when it's time to get the hops out.
     
  15. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Many BAs have posted that this method works. I have never don't it.

    Cheers!
     
  16. hopfenunmaltz

    hopfenunmaltz Pooh-Bah (2,635) Jun 8, 2005 Michigan
    Pooh-Bah

    I haven't had many problems, 5 gallon strainer bag over the racking cane gives a lot of area. If the flow stops, you can crimp the hose, pick the cane+bag up give it a shake to knock off the hops, put it back in the beer and proceed.
     
  17. dealjon

    dealjon Initiate (0) Feb 27, 2014

    I'm about to dry hop a Double IPA that has been in a secondary fermenter for about a week. This will be my first time dry hopping — What hops should I use?
    I used 4 oz. Columbus hops and 2 oz. Zythos in the boil.
    I'll probably use hop pellets, any recommendations?
     
  18. JohnSnowNW

    JohnSnowNW Initiate (0) Feb 6, 2013 Minnesota

    I have found Columbus fantastic to dry-hop with. Perhaps throw some Centennial in there as well.
     
  19. dealjon

    dealjon Initiate (0) Feb 27, 2014

    So if I'm using hop pellets, the best method is to use a mesh hop bag with some kind of weight in it and let it hang about halfway down the fermenter? Should I take it out or leave the hops in before I siphon into the bottling bucket in about a week?
     
  20. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    If you dry hop in a suspended, weighted bag, there would be no reason to remove for racking. Unless it's preventing you from positioning the racking cane where you want.
     
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