Dry Hopping

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by BigJoeC, Aug 5, 2013.

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  1. BigJoeC

    BigJoeC Zealot (563) Jan 22, 2011 New Jersey

    I am going to dry hop my IPA. I brewed it on Friday. I planned on fermenting about 14 days before bottling. At what point would you add pellet hops for dry hopping? I assume I would just open it up, dump them in and close it back up. I'd probably give it a couple days before bottling. SO, I was thinking dry hop after 7 days in primary, wait 7 more days, then if fermentation allows, bottle.
     
  2. JohnSnowNW

    JohnSnowNW Initiate (0) Feb 6, 2013 Minnesota

    What I do...2 weeks in primary then 7-8 days for dry-hop. Making it 3 weeks total.
     
  3. TheMonkfish

    TheMonkfish Initiate (0) Jan 8, 2012 Chad

    That's what I do. I've read that if you dry hop too early the flocculating yeast can tend to pull the hop particles out of suspension prematurely.
     
  4. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    “I was thinking dry hop after 7 days in primary, wait 7 more days, then if fermentation allows, bottle.” In all likelihood that schedule would work out OK.

    I just want to expound upon:

    · I personally wait until the primary has stopped producing CO2 (no airlock activity) before I add my dry hops. This may well occur at day 7 but I let the yeast/fermentation decide that vs. the calendar

    · 7 days of contact time for the dry hops is a good rule of thumb; 7 days is good.

    Cheers!
     
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  5. Scope4Beer

    Scope4Beer Zealot (677) Sep 28, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Trader

    Definitely wait until airlock activity has stopped or really slowed. Active fermentation will drive off the aromatics of the hops, which is the point with dryhopping in the first place. I typically let the beer sit for 2 weeks, dryhop around that time for 5-7 days, and then bottle.
     
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  6. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    I dryhop in a purged keg 2 weeks before consuming (1 week room temp and 1 week cold)...this could be 2 months after brewing sometimes. YMMV if direct bottling.
     
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  7. BigJoeC

    BigJoeC Zealot (563) Jan 22, 2011 New Jersey

    Darn! I brewed on the 2nd. I am leaving for just over a week on the 20th. My hope was to bottle on the 19th. SO, I will loo to dry hop on the 13th. That gives me about 7 days dry hopping after 12 days fermentation. Should be fin.

    Now, I am considering what hops to use. I thought an ounce of Willamette and an ounce of Cascade. In my one gal batch I may try other hop options. Any suggestions?
     
  8. FATC1TY

    FATC1TY Pooh-Bah (2,564) Feb 12, 2012 Georgia
    Pooh-Bah


    This is what I do. Primary, and crash it. Keg it, and dry hop it and allow it to go to room temp. Give it a week or 10 days... then I cold condition it, and depending on beer, toss another round of dry hops in it, and carb it while it chills and dry hops more.
     
  9. FATC1TY

    FATC1TY Pooh-Bah (2,564) Feb 12, 2012 Georgia
    Pooh-Bah


    What do you have hop wise to use?

    Simcoe, Amarillo, Citra, Mosaic.. All are pretty "hot" hops at the current moment. Chinook is one of my personal favorites, next to Simcoe and Amarillo. I'm not fond of Citra these days, and Mosaic hasn't really spoken to me yet, but I'm trying to love the pound I have in the freezer.
     
  10. BigJoeC

    BigJoeC Zealot (563) Jan 22, 2011 New Jersey

    I don't have any right now to use. I need to make a run to my local brew store. I like Amarillo too.
     
  11. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Grand Pooh-Bah (3,452) May 21, 2010 Texas
    Society Pooh-Bah


    :grimacing:

    You mean you're not all citra, all the time? The hell you say! :rolling_eyes:

    When I dry-hop, I try to get 6-7 days of dry hop contact before bottling. Total time in fermenter (including dry hopping) is optimally about 20-21 days for me. It can be less, but it's probably better to give it three weeks total time (give or take a day or two) for typical beers.
     
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  12. mattbk

    mattbk Savant (1,111) Dec 12, 2011 New York

    One comment here - while dry hopping kegs with whole leafs is a good idea, I advise against it for pellets. Too much hop junk will make it into the final beer. For pellet dry hopping, stick to dry hopping in the primary. Cheers!
     
  13. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    Or use a very fine mesh nylon bag, IMHO.
     
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  14. FATC1TY

    FATC1TY Pooh-Bah (2,564) Feb 12, 2012 Georgia
    Pooh-Bah

    I normally use leaf for almost all my brewing. On the rare occasion I have to use pellet I use a fine mesh bag. First beer is floaters and second beer is pretty clear. After that no issues with pellets
     
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  15. SFACRKnight

    SFACRKnight Grand Pooh-Bah (3,348) Jan 20, 2012 Colorado
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    Chinook and Amarillo are hot together.
     
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  16. MLucky

    MLucky Initiate (0) Jul 31, 2010 California

    I think the more or less standard practice is to wait till after primary fermentation is done, and then add your hops for 7-10 days. But like almost everything in brewing, there is a lot of variation in what people do.

    But there are some really great brewers who say you ought to add the hops while the yeast is still fairly active, so that they will get rid of the oxygen you're introducing. (There are even some who claim you'll get different flavors out of the hops from doing it this way.) Also, there are those who say that a shorter dry hopping period (3-4 days) will actually give you more aroma than the more standard 7-10. And then there is the debate between those who say leaving dry hops in the beer for longer than about 10 days will give you unwanted grassy flavors versus those who say they leave hops in their kegs for months at a time with no ill effects. So what's the moral of this little story? Danged if I know. I suppose we might conclude dry hopping is pretty hard to screw up, since you can apparently do it any one of a dozen different ways and still get good results.
     
  17. FATC1TY

    FATC1TY Pooh-Bah (2,564) Feb 12, 2012 Georgia
    Pooh-Bah


    This is true.
     
  18. FATC1TY

    FATC1TY Pooh-Bah (2,564) Feb 12, 2012 Georgia
    Pooh-Bah

    I'll toss a vote in there, and say, with your hop schedule, something loud and potent would be tasty in the dry hop.

    I vote for straight Simcoe, or a Simcoe/Cascade mix, and ounce of each at least.
     
  19. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Grand Pooh-Bah (3,452) May 21, 2010 Texas
    Society Pooh-Bah

    For a straight single-dry-hop choice, I'm all about cascade. But I'm biased, because I'm a cascade nutjob. :rolling_eyes:
     
  20. SFACRKnight

    SFACRKnight Grand Pooh-Bah (3,348) Jan 20, 2012 Colorado
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    if you want loud why not leave the cascade out and go centennial then? Honest question, not being a jerk.
     
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