Electric brew kettle

You really need some kind of controller with a solid state relay. You need to beable to safely turn things off as well properly control the power to reduce boil overs. There some cheap SSR and PID controllers with temp sensor on amazon.

 

Exactly what you need. Good idea on choosing 240, you won't regret it.

 

Www.theelectricbrewery.com

 

I can't disagree, but will say that I am brewing 5 gallon batches and do not feel limited by 120.

 

@DavidlovesCBC check this website out. Just ran into it. https://brausupply.com

 

Also check out homebrewtalk, there is a whole section on electric brewing with lots of examples from basic to super complicated.

 

If you want to go cheaper, don't bother with a controller w/temp sensor. Just get this - it's a high-powered equivalent of a light dimmer. Make sure it can handle your wattage - this one gives you plenty of wiggle room.

I mounted it to my brew stand and wired it to an outlet also on my stand - that way I can plug my kettle right into my stand with a short cord, and control the temp without reaching around to the back of my kettle.

Don't forget that you NEED a GFCI breaker somewhere in your circuit. I know they're expensive, but it can't be skipped. You're working with a lot of electricity here, plus water, which can be dangerous. I got a 6' 240v extension cord with a GFCI breaker built in from McMaster Carr - you can also read around about putting the gfci breaker in your breaker panel or shoehorning the breaker from a spa panel in your circuit. Homebrewtalk is helpful.

 

What is your setup? I am looking to get off of the stovetop but have the following limitations:

1. I am not mechanically/electrically competent
2. I do not have ability to use 240v
3. All I can do is 120v in my rented townhouse

 

If you have a dryer, you have 240v. But I get it, may not be practical for you. I just personally think it's a waste of time and money to buy anything that'll be running on 120v. Even when people use propane and 120v elements. I just see it as a waste. I just don't see the point in it. If you can save your pennies, do it. Like I said, you won't regret it. Look up specs on how long it takes to heat up per say, 5 gallons of water using a 120v element...it's not very fast.

 

http://www.highgravitybrew.com/store/pc/BIAB-Electric-Brewing-System-120V-158p4647.htm

I'm not a huge DIYer and I don't trust myself with electrical, so I went with a more-or-less pre-packaged deal. I could have sprung for the 240 v with an extended cord from my dryer, but then I wouldn't be able to do laundry on brew day

It really does boil down to time <haha, see what I did?>. I have brewed all grain on several different setups.

Time to boil on an electric stove top splitting boil between three kettles on three burners >time to boil with a 120v Blichmann boilcoil ~= time to boil on a natural gas stove splitting boil among two kettles and 4 burners > propane turkey fryer system

If you are in a situation where 240 won't do, you can get by with a 120. I'd probably be happier if I brought in an electrician to rewire a couple circuits in my house so I could use 240 in my kitchen in the winter and on my deck at other times. It might shave some time off my day.

 

There is a plethora of resources online on how to wire things. Best you could do, is to do the work yourself and hire an electrician to check connections and make the connections at the panel for your home. You are talking about a substancial savings.

 

OK. Maybe I could trust myself. But I'm still not a huge DIYer. Translation = lazy.

But aren't there codes and certifications and things like for legal, on the up and up changes. What would my homeowners insurance peeps say? What would they say if I burned my house down: "Blah blah, blah blah blah, blah blah blah?"
(Liberty Mutual commercial reference).

Long story short, I didn't do it this time, but if there is an opportunity where I decide it's time to do something differently, it's an option I'dconsider.

 

They wouldn't say anything. Everyone else might, but not your insurance company.
Homeowners insurance covers stupidity.
They can't deny coverage if they suspect arson.
They can't even deny coverage if they suspect YOU are the arsonist. That is for a court of law, not an insurance examiner to decide. And if it does turn out to be arson then they can try to collect from the arsonist. That includes you if necessary. In the meantime, are you covered? Did you pay the premium? Did an actual loss occur? OK. Claim gets settled.

But of course if you are unsure of your electrical skill or worse, too sure of your electrical skill, hire a pro instead.
Cheers.
I did 5 years international property claims at AIG. Worthless 5 years and it confirmed everything bad about corporate America.

 

Did you even visit the website brau supply website o referred you to?? If you don't feel comfortable wiring anything up yourself, just buy it?? You have some pretty simple options on that website.

 

I wasn't thinking deny a claim but cancel a policy. I had to find a new insurer last year because the previous one didn't like my new dog's breed. It seems to me if you alter your house you are altering the terms of the policy, but I'm no expert.