electric brewing: heating element question

Not an electric brewer, but I've been reading up while considering a RIMS tube for my mash. I think people who are using elements to boil are generally using something more in the 240v, 5000w heatstick range. My understanding is that the 1500w low density elements are great at maintaining temps, not so great at ramping up temps a lot.

 

It might work for the HLT eventually (very very slow), but certainly not for a BK. Get 4500W 240V elements from Home Depot. They are cheap. You will get half the wattage when you drive them with 120V. You can use two, but will probably have to plug into two different circuits.

Edit: I am a RIMS brewer using BCS 460 PID controller

 

Whoop! Whoop! Whoop!
This is one of the few DIY oriented forums on the internet where you can say things like that without getting you head ripped off by self appointed nanny state enforcement police. It would seem that people here have a rare level of respect for the skills and common sense of other members. (odd, really, since we tend to drink a lot )

 

I probably should say this: You should only attempt such an electical project if you understand and are qualified. Always use gfci circuts in wet environments. And specifically understand that while it is safe to to run a 240V heating element on a 120V circuit, it is NOT safe to power a 120V element on a 240V circuit.

 

For people like me who have no electrician experience, it's either trust the guy who drinks a lot or risk burning my house down with nobody to point a finger at. Sometimes it's a rock and a hard place.

 

I think you only get 1/4 the output when driving 240V elements with 120V. 4500W @ 240V would only output 1125W @ 120V.

Power output in Watts varies by the square of the applied voltage, so increasing voltage x2 (120V to 240V) results in power output increase by 2 squared, or x4.

 

Did you just describe Ohm's Law? If so, this is not just a good idea . . . it's the Law.

 

Yes i was not accurate there. Thanks for the correction. But I'll add that the increased resistance is probably a good thing when theere is direct contact with wort. It is less likely to scortch than the 120V element wich produces more heat in less area.

 

Absolutely! My point is that Sluggy didn't feel the need to warn you about the dangers inherent in a project like this, particularly with the unconventional (and likely non-code) means of getting 240V to the element, instead, making the assumption that you're probably not an idiot. I actually found that refreshing!

Years ago, I would frequent a thoroughly DIY home improvement forum on Usenet. Anytime someone would ask a how-to question about electricity, he would be immediately pummeled with disparaging replies questioning his very intelligence for having been so clueless as to have asked such a question in the first place. 'leave it to the pros, moron' was a common refrain. There was usually a helpful response or two buried under the heap of unsolicited 'advice'. I got a similar response from the self-appointed Fire Marshals when I asked a question about installing a vented range hood in my basement. That was probably the biggest reason I grew tired of that forum.

 

You'll shoot your eye out, kid.