Feedback on NE style IPA

Citra is mango, pineapple and dank
Amarillo is orange, lemon and floral
Mosaic is lemon, melon, blueberry, dank and onion.

If you want passion fruit, sub Galaxy for Mosaic.

 

Well sir, 1# of carapils doesn't produce a beer I would call thin regardless of mash temp. It's possible we have a different idea of what a thin body is. Then again, you are trying to make a NE IPA which apparently has the body of a thick stout. I don't think I've had a proper NE IPA.

Oats will plump up the body. So will the higher mash temp. Using a less attenuative yeast will help. 1056 tends to produce a thinner beer than many other yeasts. The beer will be sweeter if you do all of those.

@psnydez86 has put a lot of effort into making beers in the NE IPA style and I think he can provide better assistance than me moving forward.

 

citra and galaxy is what you seek, ditch the amarillo. Also, if you are worried about thin mouthfeel ditch the sugar.
edit: London 3 with 5 oz of dryhops should get you plenty cloudy. Lastly, are you bottling? how fast are you going grain to glass?

 

This cult style is suggested to be chloride forward. Cl/SO4 ratio is 2/1 or 3/1.

And it's entirely possible you are drinking beer that is way too fresh. Good things should happen to beer with a reasonable amount of time. At least consider an extra week or two in your grain to glass process. If your beer doesn't taste fresh after one month from keg day, something is wrong.

 

My best guess from what I've read is 150ppm Cl and 75ppm SO4 or 100ppm Cl and 50ppm SO4. Since I have not tried this balance, others that have will should contribute. As far as how many grams of X to add, you will have to run it through a water calculator or perhaps others can provide guidance. I don't use RO water.

 

5 days seems a little short to transfer to keg

 

I may not be a huge help on the hops as I've never had Julius. But I can let you know what I've been doing for NE inspired hoppy ales.

1). Use 1318 from wyeast. That's huge.
2.) Load up the kettle with hops late. I do ALL hop additions at flameout. Plenty of bitterness comes through by not chilling immediately. (4-8 ounces usually)
3.) 2:1 CaCl:gypsum. Use all distilled water and use bru n water spreadsheet. 200ppm chloride:100ppmsulfate works well.
4.) 8-18% flaked grains (wheat/oats). I would go lower on this number if adding crystal malts and regular wheat. In fact I think flaked grains become less important when using 1318 yeast, that yeast leaves crazy mouthfeel on its own with hops.
5.) minimum dry hop of 5 oz per 5 gallons.
6.). Keg the beer, try and keep your grubby hands off it early. It will be tough but 1318 starts hitting its stride after being kegged for a couple weeks. Although it will certainly never clear up. Never.

 

All great advice above. I would only add a few more things into the mix. Get your first dose of dry hops in the fermentor just after day 3. You can then do your second dose in the keg. The jury seems to still be out on the affect of this process but I'm a firm believer that it works. Trillium and Treehouse are both rumored to do it. Well Trillium is no rumor. JC has told several people to try it. Also really load up on the dry hops. I do about 3 oz in each dose. I also do all my flavor hops at flameout and at 180 with 15 minute min hop stands at each stage. Good luck.

 

I would take the advice mentioned earlier about reducing the sugar. You could do nothing or I usually add in about 4-6 oz. I like my IPA's finishing around 1.011 or 1.012. You might finish out under 1.010 and be a little thin with a 1lb. Also, you might want to consider just doing your 4 oz of kettle hops at flameout rather than 180. It all depends on the bitterness level you are shooting for. I think it looks like a great IPA.

 

What is the point of using carapils and table sugar?

 

I have the same question. I understand a darker crystal plus sugar if you want the flavor of the darker crystal (even just C20) without the body, but I don't see the point of adding and taking away body at the same time. I'd just use extra base malt. Please enlighten me.

 

One thing I just noticed is you said your mash pH was 3.76. If it truly was 3.76, you are likely to experience starch to sugar conversion problems.