Ferment Temp Control: from outside or inside?

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by GeeL, Oct 20, 2020.

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  1. GeeL

    GeeL Initiate (0) Aug 27, 2008 Massachusetts

    Hi. I've brewed over 200 batches and am looking at upgrading some parts of my system. I currently use plastic buckets for fermentation. For temp control, I put the buckets in a large Rubbermaid bin filled with water. For heating, I use aquarium heaters mounted to the side and circulate the water using aquarium pumps. For cooling, I use a separate Coleman cooler filled with water and ice and use a pump to circulate water from the Rubbermaid bin through copper tubing in the cooler. These systems work really well. I've often used a thermometer put through a stopper in the lid of the bucket and oftentimes the temperature doesn't deviate more than 1.5 degrees. Temperature changes occur over the course of an hour, and don't put a sudden temperature strain on the yeast.

    However, I want to get away from using an autosiphon and opening the bucket to transfer to keg. I'd like to be able to transfer under pressure. As such, I want to upgrade to stainless fermenters (such as SS Brewtech, or Anvil; however, I just saw ones from Delta Brewing that look promising). However, they use cooling systems inside the fermenter.

    Question: Is one form of temp control better than the other? Meaning, from the outside or the inside? I would think the greater surface area of the outside is more gentle; however, I'd guess if there was an issue of running really cold glycol (from a DIY glycol chiller... potentially a cool project!) through tubing inside the fermeter, they wouldn't be as popular. Same with the heating belts: they're much warmer than the water system I use, if they were harmful I would guess they wouldn't be as popular.

    Thanks for your thoughts.
     
    #1 GeeL, Oct 20, 2020
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2020
  2. GeeL

    GeeL Initiate (0) Aug 27, 2008 Massachusetts

    Disregard this. I remember my high school chemistry: you're not cooling the wort/beer as much as you're absorbing and removing the heat.

    Too late to delete the post.
     
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  3. PortLargo

    PortLargo Pooh-Bah (1,831) Oct 19, 2012 Florida
    Pooh-Bah

    Shame . . . it was such a thoroughly articulated post. :slight_smile:

    A couple of workarounds that I find helpful. If auto-siphoning from bucket you can transfer to "closed" keg fairly easily. It just involves attaching a liquid (black) QD to Out post on keg and leaving lid closed (with PRV venting). Just have the keg purged (water/CO2/both) and you eliminate just about all of the downstream contact with air. On the upstream side, the headspace of your bucket is filled with CO2 when you open it up. You're talking 10-12 minutes to transfer via auto-siphon. It's during this time the headspace will start to co-mingle with air (and ultimately oxygen will reach the beer). Just don't go for the last drop, leave an inch or so behind, which is the portion most exposed. Using this method I find little to no oxidation problems (regardless of what the NHC judges say).

    That said, the closed transfer from SS fermenters to keg is a superior method.
     
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  4. utahbeerdude

    utahbeerdude Maven (1,374) May 2, 2006 Utah

    This is essentially my method. I also find that it works quite well. My hoppy beers stay quite drinkable for quite some time.
     
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