Fermentation stink

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by aussiebeer, Oct 10, 2023.

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  1. aussiebeer

    aussiebeer Savant (1,209) Oct 23, 2013 Illinois

    G’day all,

    I feel like I should know this…..I’ve done some ok successful homebrews over the past several years. Probably none that I could say, hey, I should open my own brewery…..but it’s ok to drink. Some homebrewers have a good drinkable beer at the end every time, is that the case? Or is a certain percentage that don’t have a drinkable beer.

    It seems like every time I brew now, maybe for the past 5 or 6, maybe 7, 8, 9, 10 brews, I dunno.....the fermented beer after the 14 days fermenting time has smelled like absolute skunk/cat piss mixed with elephant sweat, purely undrinkable.

    I’ve done some research to figure out the smell but can’t seem to find it, it driving me nuts. So I tried many different things from buying a new plastic carboy, then a new clawhammer brewing system. I use an inkbird temp control with a fan for cooling and a wrap around heating thing. I usually cool down the wort to 70 degrees and then transfer to the fermenter. I have used liquid yeast, yeast starters and dry yeast. I’ve used one yeast packet, 1.5 and 2 yeast packets, even rehydrated the dry yeast.

    The recipe is a simple pale ale with 9lbs of 2 row and 2lbs of 10L Caramel/Crystal Malt.

    I feel like I’m doing everything right in regards to sanitizing, but I could be wrong.

    I’m fresh out of ideas and I’m about to give up……please help
     
  2. riptorn

    riptorn Pooh-Bah (1,776) Apr 26, 2018 Georgia
    BA4LYFE Society Pooh-Bah Trader

    If you're still getting pee-sweat-funk after using a brand new, cleaned & sanitized bucket, it might be something in your post-boil equipment.

    How do you cool the wort to 70°?
    What do you use to transfer the wort from the cooling vessel (presumably the brew kettle) to the fermentor?
    If transferring from the brew kettle to the fermentor, does the kettle have a spigot (that maybe needs cleaning)?
    Is there anything odd growing on top of the beer after 14 days in the fermentor?
     
    GormBrewhouse likes this.
  3. aussiebeer

    aussiebeer Savant (1,209) Oct 23, 2013 Illinois

    I cool it down using a chill plate that came with the clawhammer, the tubing goes into a pump and then through the chill plate.I run it through with 15-20 minuted left in the boil to sanitize it. I've only used the clawhammer twice now.
    I have noticed that there really is only a little bit of fermentation going on and then nothing, usually it's an amber color when starting and then it goes to a dark color two days later. I did a brew last Thursday and this is happening right now.
    Nothing growing on top of the beer
     
  4. Granitebeard

    Granitebeard Zealot (549) Aug 24, 2016 Maine

    Are you using extract or doing all grain? This can explain some color, but changing after the boil is odd to me. What is your sanitizer? Also, I am assuming a 5 gallon batch.

    Another question is, are you using solid or clear buckets/carboys? If it is clear and getting sunlight, this could explain a little.

    What yeast do you use?

    If none of this explains anything, Something somewhere has to be giving it the funk. It is just going to take time to narrow it down.
     
  5. aussiebeer

    aussiebeer Savant (1,209) Oct 23, 2013 Illinois

    All grain every time, Star San for the sanitizer (I even bought a new bottle), yep, 5 gallon batch.
    I use those 7/8 gallon clear plastic carboys with the red screw on top, purchased a thermowell and put that in because I thought the temp was incorrect. Now I put the (now new) inkwell temp sensor on the outside and taped it under something so its not taking room temp. I put it in a dark basement.

    I used to use Wyeast 1056, but now onto Safeale US-05 because I order online.
    Last batch I put 2 packs of Safeale in because I thought there was not enough yeast, but I was wrong.
    On this batch that I did last week I put 1.5 packs of Safale in as BeerSmith mentioned that, I didn't want to rehydrate or make a yeast starter because that's what I did in the past with the same outcome. So when transferring the cooled wort from the clawhammer to the fermenter I just let the wort fall so to get some oxygen in there, put the yeast in and did the shake up of the carboy for a minute or two to get some more oxygen in.

    As you said, something, somewhere is happening to do this, I feel like I've done something different on the cold side to remedy this every time.
    Maybe I should just follow someone else's recipe than to make my own, coz that seems to be the factor.
    Maybe I'm not mashing in enough grains, or not mashing enough.
    I cook dinner for the family every day, I'd say 99% of the time it's an edible meal, that 1% I can figure out exactly why and try better next time. This 100% bad beer every time is nuts.
    I have a feeling I should take some classes on fermentation or ask someone in the area to help
     
  6. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Given the grain bill you are listing there I am perplexed how this beer could be dark in color; those grains should result in a pale colored beer.

    One indicator of oxidation is beer darkening over a period of time but generally speaking that would be over a longer period of time.

    You mentioned "ask someone in the area to help" which might be your best bet here. Having an experienced brewer providing a second set of eyes may be very useful here. Maybe they will see where something is amiss in your brewing process.

    Cheers!
     
  7. aussiebeer

    aussiebeer Savant (1,209) Oct 23, 2013 Illinois

    Thanks all for your help so far, really appreciate it. If anyone else can think of something I'm doing wrong, please let me know.
    I think something is killing the yeast, because there's hardly any fermentation, the grain bill is good for a pale ale.
    I'll reach out to a mate that got me into brewing and we'll go from there
     
  8. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    What is the final gravity reading for your beer?

    Cheers!
     
  9. Granitebeard

    Granitebeard Zealot (549) Aug 24, 2016 Maine

    How are you mashing? How do you boil? What is your water profile?
     
  10. aussiebeer

    aussiebeer Savant (1,209) Oct 23, 2013 Illinois

    Not taking any gravity readings as I just wanted to make a beer that tastes good first, maybe I should start taking an OG to see if it's ready?
     
  11. aussiebeer

    aussiebeer Savant (1,209) Oct 23, 2013 Illinois

    Mashing and boiling are done with this.... https://www.clawhammersupply.com/products/digital-electric-120v-homebrew-beer-system.
    Last brew was 7.03 gallons of distilled water with 10.3g of Gypsum, 5.8g Epsom salt, 3g Calcium Chloride, 2.8g baking soda, 1.5g Chalk. Added 1/2 a Campden tablet.
    9lbs of 2 row and 2lbs of 10L Caramel/Crystal Malt. Mash at 156 for an hour, then mash out at 168 for 10 mins. Started the boil (It takes a while with the 120v system), added a Whirlfloc tablet at 15 mins, 0.5 oz Vic Secret at 10 minutes along with 5 Tbsp Yeast Nutirent, then 1.5oz Vic Secret at flame out
     
  12. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    If you're talking about a dark color in the fermenter, it's normal for the color to darken as the yeast drops out of suspension. And, all beers look darker in the fermenter than they do in the glass, because there's more depth in the fermenter.
     
  13. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Yes, you should take gravity readings. The gravity reading of the wort is the Original Gravity and once fermentation is complete take another reading which is the Final Gravity.

    I just got done brewing a batch of Oatmeal Stout and I took three measurements:
    • Mash temperature (154 degrees F)
    • Mash pH (5.3)
    • Original Gravity (1.048 which is exactly per my target)
    Taking regular measurements is good brewing practice.

    Cheers!
     
  14. aussiebeer

    aussiebeer Savant (1,209) Oct 23, 2013 Illinois

    This may be what I'm missing, I do have a pH reader too, but never used it.
    So do I take the Final Gravity after the 14 days is up? If I had a fermenter with a spigot I could measure any time
    I'm trying again next week
     
    GormBrewhouse likes this.
  15. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    Mash pH would not explain the aromas you report. If the pH was really high, it could explain some pre-fermentation wort darkening, but not darkening that happens later. "Final" gravity should be measured whenever you suspect that fermentation is finished, then 2-3 days later, to confirm that it hasn't changed. If it hasn't changed, and it's in the expected range, then attenuation is finished.
     
    aussiebeer likes this.
  16. Jasonja1474

    Jasonja1474 Savant (1,100) Oct 15, 2018 Tennessee
    Trader

    I noticed you mentioned there is nothing on top of the wort in the fermenter. So are you saying that it never forms a Kruasen “ pardon me if that is spelled wrong “ or it does then it falls and the beer clears and gets darker? Also, does it taste like it smells?
     
  17. aussiebeer

    aussiebeer Savant (1,209) Oct 23, 2013 Illinois

    It forms a little thin krausan (Not sure on the spelling either) for the first day and falls off, then turns dark and starts to smell.
    To be honest I dont even taste it, I just smell it when I want to bottle it, if it smells I take the carboy out to the alley and pour it down the sewer. When the beer was ok to drink and before it got worse, which was maybe 2-3 years ago a mate of mine said it tasted like a wet dish rag.
     
  18. Jasonja1474

    Jasonja1474 Savant (1,100) Oct 15, 2018 Tennessee
    Trader

    Ya , I am stumped If you’re 100% sure your cleaning and sanitation is up to par. The ingredients are not years old I’m assuming? I would take all my equipment apart that touches the wort/beer and change the tubing to new. Take the pump apart and all valves ( like completely apart) and soak in bleach then rinse very well and then air dry and then Star San when using. I always neglected the ball valve on my kettle other than taking it off and cleaning the threads and inlet/outlet but never took the ball and seats apart. Once I did after doing a hot water/pwb clean and the amount of gunk still in the ball and seats was amazing. I could not believe it was still that dirty. Same for the pump impeller.
     
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  19. aussiebeer

    aussiebeer Savant (1,209) Oct 23, 2013 Illinois

    Even if its a brand new system? That I cleaned out with PBW before and after for an hour each time?
     
  20. aussiebeer

    aussiebeer Savant (1,209) Oct 23, 2013 Illinois

    So I changed the grain bill a little to match one on Clawhammer's website, Thursday is the big day because I'm waiting on a temperature gauge that sits on the output of the plate chiller to take the temp of the wort before it goes back in.

    7.3 Gallons Distilled water
    ---This is the water profile from Beersmith
    3.5g Calcium Chloride
    2.76g Epsom Salt
    1.67g Gypsum
    1.49g Baking Soda

    1/2 Campden tablet
    8lbs 12oz Organic Pale Malt (They ran out of regular at the homebrew store)
    1lb Flaked Wheat
    8oz Caramel 20L
    8oz Caramel 60L
    Whirlfloc Tablet at 15 minutes left in the boil
    1/2 oz Vic Secret (Aussie style!!!!) at 10 minutes left
    1.5 oz Vic Secret at flameout
    2 x Omega OYL-004 West Coast 1

    I'm still worried that that might be too much yeast, they have both been manufactured in the past month, but I don't think one would be enough.
     
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