fermenter + kegerator from mini fridge

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by corbmoster, Jan 31, 2015.

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  1. corbmoster

    corbmoster Pundit (848) Dec 15, 2014 Texas
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    Note, I wasn't sure if this should be here for the fermenter, or in home bar for the kegerator.

    I do have 1 specific question: should I wire a computer fan in there to circulate air? Other than that, I'm looking for general feed back.

    Hopefully I should be getting this fridge used and pretty cheap. My idea was to take the door plastics off, trim down the shelve supports, move the cooling shelf, add a tap, and add 3rd party cooling controller. My idea, and it sounds like a couple people have tried this with mini fridges with some success, is to use it to controll temps for fermentation. Then, keg the beer. And use this as a kegerator. Simple enough right? Height shouldn't be a problem. Width maybe... I have a plan if it can't accommodate a 6 gal bucket / carboy due to width.
     
  2. PortLargo

    PortLargo Pooh-Bah (1,831) Oct 19, 2012 Florida
    Pooh-Bah

    I would say probably not necessary for fermentation. For serving it will depend on faucet location . . . if needed it's an easy add-on.

    A lot of compact fridges have the evaporator coil integral to the cooling shelf, just be aware. I'm positive the "hump" that is cleverly hiding behind the lower pull out shelf will give you fits. On mine, I had to introduce Mr. Sawzall to the door shelves that extend to the inside. Before buying, take a paper cut-out (or lid) of your bucket/carboy and see if they really fit. Also, be aware that a corny is taller than most buckets/carboys. When measuring be sure to add for airlocks.

    Controlling the temp should work easily. As for adding faucets, I enjoy drilling in fridges . . . others quake.

    You do know with a single fridge you won't be able to brew again until your keg kicks . . . then ~6 weeks before serving draft style again. Problem solved if you can get two of these . . .
     
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  3. corbmoster

    corbmoster Pundit (848) Dec 15, 2014 Texas
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    Yep I am aware that I'll only be able to do 1 batch at a time with this set up, and I'l cool with that. My semester has begun full swing and I don't have too much time to be brewing beer.
     
  4. corbmoster

    corbmoster Pundit (848) Dec 15, 2014 Texas
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    FYI, the flat bottom space in front of the hump is barely too small. The bottom extends past the threshold by maybe 0.25 inch. the lid is the bad one here, it extents past the door way by an inch or so. All isn't lost though... I have a few good ideas to make this thing work. Stay tuned for more details as they unfold :wink:

    Edit: I will probably do a write up / how to for what ever solution I end up using in another thread. But I will drop the link to that back here. And it will probably take some time for me to finish that up (school, work, research, etc). First things first, I need to pick my temp control device.
     
  5. corbmoster

    corbmoster Pundit (848) Dec 15, 2014 Texas
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    Is there a big persuasion of Ranco Vs. stc-1000?
     
  6. PortLargo

    PortLargo Pooh-Bah (1,831) Oct 19, 2012 Florida
    Pooh-Bah

    Heretofore I was a big Ranco fan . . . had two with good results. But my latest upgrade was an STC-1000 which is both cheaper and better. If you search around on Amazon you can get one with Frankenheit degrees and two stages (hot and cold simultaneous) for under 20 bucks, plus they are very small. You have to buy an extension card and a project box (to make it purty), although it can be mounted in the cardboard box it shipped in. The ones that have F degrees will have another name (mine is Inkbird) but they are the same . . . would buy again.
     
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  7. corbmoster

    corbmoster Pundit (848) Dec 15, 2014 Texas
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    Thanks for the info! Why do you say the stc is better than Ranco? F or C doesn't bother me. I'm a bio major, and all I use all day long is C. The only time I use F is when I check the weather on my phone. So, I'm cool with either or.
     
  8. PortLargo

    PortLargo Pooh-Bah (1,831) Oct 19, 2012 Florida
    Pooh-Bah

    STC is F and C (newer models). Most models have two relays, you can program Heat/Cool cycles and it will switch automatically. Most Rancos are single relays (will operate in both modes but must be switched manually), the dual relay is a higher price option. It's tiny, about the size of two decks of cards. The Ranco isn't huge, but takes up more space. STC has nice bright numbers (and displays tenths) you can read across the room . . . Ranco has dim LEDs that are easy to read but you have to get close. STC has compressor delay setting (0-10 min), there's a workaround for the Ranco but this is nice. STC is ⅓ the price, at 15 bucks not a stretch to have a spare hanging around. The biggest advantage of Ranco is it has a nice plastic housing, this must be added on for STC.

    You'll find the F/C model listed under a couple of different names, pretty sure they are all the same. The price on Amazon changes regularly for the STC. If not in a big hurry drop it in your wish list and keep an eye on it . . . which I find to be great sport.
     
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  9. corbmoster

    corbmoster Pundit (848) Dec 15, 2014 Texas
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    Thanks so much for the info / insight. I had seen that the STC were capable of doing both cool and heat at the same time. which is a cool feature. I'm actually surprised house thermostats don't do this (I think some of the new expensive ones like the nest might?). Have you heard or anyone using the heat function on the stc?
     
  10. PortLargo

    PortLargo Pooh-Bah (1,831) Oct 19, 2012 Florida
    Pooh-Bah

    It's always hot where I live, so no, Heat function has never been used. I'm aging/dh'ing two cornies now at 68 and Mr. Fridge Compressor is chugging away to keep temps down.

    In fairness to the single stage Ranco, it will certainly handle the Heat mode. You just have to manually set it up (involves pushing a button). And it's rare you would need automatic switching between Heat/Cold during a normal brew cycle. As the seasons change yes, but over a couple of days probably not.
     
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  11. corbmoster

    corbmoster Pundit (848) Dec 15, 2014 Texas
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    The top of my fridge does not come off. And I know the wire does run across the top. How can I avoid hitting it? I looked at these two posts that were using the same model as mine and it seems like they both just had dumb luck of not cutting the wire. I guess if I did, I could have a friend solder a band aid / splint wire in and I could insulate it. But I would really like to avoid that scenario. I thought about using door mounted taps. Except the drips, on carpet. And it makes the foot print bigger, and I don't have much space to work with. Top mounted post is ideal, but how do I avoid the wire?
     
  12. wspscott

    wspscott Pooh-Bah (1,958) May 25, 2006 Kentucky
    Pooh-Bah

    I have a STC that I usually use for a dorm fridge fermentation chamber. Right now, it is in my basement with a heating pad "helping" a saison keep warm. Both the heat and cool work fine, but I have not used both functions at the same time. I usually need either warm or cool, not something in the middle.

    There are lots of reports online of people using both functions at once.
     
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  13. corbmoster

    corbmoster Pundit (848) Dec 15, 2014 Texas
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    I think I heard something about a vodka / corn starch slurry. Vodka I don't have. Could I use isopropyl alcohol?
     
  14. PortLargo

    PortLargo Pooh-Bah (1,831) Oct 19, 2012 Florida
    Pooh-Bah

    If you search the Home Bar forum you'll find some fridge-drilling threads . . . some with good outcomes, some not-so-good.

    In your link, it looks fairly easy to have the hole saw penetrate the top layer of metal, then fish around for any dangers before pushing the hole all the way through. A thermostat wire would be fairly easy to re-splice, except access will be tough.

    The pics showing the freezer shelf being re-located made me cringe. What the author is calling the freezer shelf is the Evaporator Coil which carries refrigerant under pressure. One miscue here is fatal.

    In the Blind Pig Finds An Acorn Dept: the most dangerous thing the author did was to blindly drill his CO2 line through the back of the fridge. I guarantee there are refrigerant lines under pressure going from the compressor (bottom) to the evaporator (freezer shelf) . . . the only way to get there is through the sides/back of the unit. You will have a condenser coil either on the back of the unit (old timey method) or more likely at the base by the compressor or integral to the sides of the unit. This is where heat is dissipated. If there are no coils in/around the compressor the condenser coil is integral to the sides, you should feel warmth when the fridge is running. Hit any of these lines and repair bill will exceed the cost of new unit.

    Here's a good diagram: http://www.hometips.com/how-it-works/how-a-refrigerator-works.html

    But don't let me alarm you . . . I've done this basic modification on my keezer. Of course I swim with sharks for fun . . .
     
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  15. honkey

    honkey Maven (1,350) Aug 28, 2010 Arizona
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    Sounds like you need to get your priorities in order... Classes will go on without you, brewing won't!
     
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  16. corbmoster

    corbmoster Pundit (848) Dec 15, 2014 Texas
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    I've tried twice to identify wire placement with cornstarch and isopropyl alcohol. No luck. 1st try was a couple minutes after plugging it in. The 2nd attempt was an hour after being plugged in. It all evaporates evenly. I guess I can get some vodka, but I don't see how I'd have any different results. I seriously doubt this fridge doesn't have lines running through the top. Any thoughts?
     
  17. corbmoster

    corbmoster Pundit (848) Dec 15, 2014 Texas
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    I will say both sides of the fridge are quite warm with the top being very cool. Maybe I should bend the freezer tray and try again.
     
  18. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    Sounds like that controller is a real monster. :slight_smile:
     
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  19. PortLargo

    PortLargo Pooh-Bah (1,831) Oct 19, 2012 Florida
    Pooh-Bah

    From the link you posted, the wire across the top is just the connection to the thermostat. This is nothing more than the wire to your doorbell. In theory if cut it could be re-spliced, however it will be a bear to make the ends meet (no slack).

    Sounds like your condenser coil is integral to the back/sides of the unit. If you have a 5 lb tank it's possible it can sit on the hump (no drilling), space that is normally wasted. An alternative is to drill the hump; access is from the compressor compartment. Not positive, but unlikely there are refrigerant lines through this area. I would do the "feel" test for warmth to confirm. This is how I drilled the CO2 line for my keezer . . . but access is tough and much swearing involved. With a mini-fridge you could actually drill the "bottom" of the unit. Place the unit on saw horses and attack from six o'clock. So your safest options: 1. Ride the hump (cowgirl), 2. Enter side of hump (spooner), or 3. Rear entry (doggy). Who says homebrewing ain't fun?
     
  20. corbmoster

    corbmoster Pundit (848) Dec 15, 2014 Texas
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    I was going to keep the CO2 internal. The thermo controller will need to go through. I was also going to put a fan inside and that wire will go with the controller wire. I see a spot on the back where that I think would work I'll post a pic later. As an alternative, I was contemplating going through the hump from the rear. I was going to use a dremil to shave away just a layer of material at a time to avoid puncturing anything. What's worrying me right now is drilling through the top. After seeing so many pics of lines on the top I'm just worried I'm going to hit something. Your probably right though, it's probably just the thermostat line. And that's why the cornstarch alcohol trick is not working.
     
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